Approach
From the camp to the beginning of the route took one hour. From the MoonLand camp, go up to the upper paved road, and move along it towards the mountain, skirting the mountain from the west. You can turn left onto the path just above the road. Having rounded the mountain, start climbing under the route, which is clearly visible from the road. We went straight through the rough sheep's foreheads by simple climbing, but it's more correct to take to the right, walk up to the beginning of the Pharaoh's Fireplace, and go along the large ledge to the left to the beginning of the route.[Misha]
Route description
NW Corner
NW Corner Topo from Wiki
P1. 40m, V. Straight up the almost vertical narrow fireplace. Entrance to the fireplace on the wall with a break. It is better not to make a station on the first suitable shelf after 30 meters from the beginning of the route. The shelf is cramped, there are live stones under your feet, ready to fly into the fireplace, and since the station will turn out inside the fireplace, the sun comes there only at dinner time. In winter it's really cold there. It is better to climb the fireplace another 10 meters (IV) and make a station on a comfortable sunny balcony.
P2. 20m, IV-. From the balcony 10 meters upwards under the beginning of a smooth sheer wall, and along the shelf go to the left to the base of the inner corner. Convenient station on a ledge.
P3. 30m, IV. Up the inner corner with a narrow crack of 20 meters, then along the ledge to the right to a vast terrace. Convenient station on a ledge.
P4. 40m, V-. Return to the left to the inner corner and go along a narrow crack to the summit dome. The walls are smoothed, but a positive slope and reliable insurance on friends make life much easier.
since the F1 and F2 routes have a common first station, a common penultimate station and a common last pitch, these routes can be combined according to the requests of the participants.
If you go P1 along F1, and P2 along F2, and even approach the route directly along the slabs of 90 meters III, in places IV-, then you get a good 4A.
And if you go P1 along F2, and then everything along F1, you get a short warm-up route of about 2B.
The choice is yours!
[Misha]
Pitch1: 30m, IV. Up narrow wide chimney.
Pitch2: 25m, IV. 2m up from stance, easy diagonally left to start clean crack.
Pitch3: 20m. Narrow crack to terrace (2 difficult movies)
Pitch4: 40m, V-. Thin slanted (R) crack delicate, then easy to top.
Descent
main descent
Helpful Images
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