Approach
Route description
Scramble up centrally and then up right onto a ledge system running below the right side of the face. Start just left of a crack system going up the lower half of the cliff, splitting 2 dome like features. A pile of stones marks the spot. Generally spacious belays. 60m ropes, Strong line in the lower half, more broken above but generally good climbing.
1) 60m 5b Slabby climbing rightwards reaches the crack which is ascended easily to a steeper chimney. Avoid this by climbing up onto a ledge on the right and passing behind a perched boulder. Climb a short layback crack to more ledges where a short jamming crack leads to a ledge on a block on the left. Traverse this back left to belay in the chimney. Pitch can be split if rope drag is a problem.
2) 50m 5b A stupendous pitch. Back and foot the chimney using the crack on the left wall - nicer than it looks - to easier ground. Before the crack system steepens once more use holds on the left to step round onto a ledge below a slab. Move left until a few delicate moves up the slab allow a crack on the left to be reached. Move easily back right to follow the main crack to belay on a commodious ledge. Belay cracks over on the right.
3) 60m 5a A delightful pitch. Follow the obvious continuation crack system at the back of the ledge. This leads up to a squeeze chimney. Bags on the back may need to be removed! Squeeze out behind the chockstone to a tree. Possible belay. Continue easily to a steepening and climb carefully on suspect blocks to belay just above. 64
4) 30m 5c Continue up the groove until just before the top where the crack closes. Place good gear as high as possible. Down climb 6m until it is possible to bridge out and reach a rounded flake on the right. Push off and scamper up this to an easing then follow the corner crack to the top - a large ledge system with many potential options. It is possible to avoid the 5c move by lowering further down to the right and with the use of the tree enter an easy wide crack to climb to the top.
5) 100m Mod. Scramble easily leftwards along a lower ramp line for a pitch and a half . This leads to the base of a wide crack continueing up left.
6) 45m 5b A pleasent pitch. Avoid the wide crack by starting up the groove on the right, then climbing a shallow groove system and wall between the two. Spaced gut generally reasonable wires. Move back left to the main crack at a bush and continue up to a closing wide crack that can be bridged. Belay just above.
7) 40m Mod Follow the line up left a little way until an easy traverse leftwards goes round and up into a gully.
8) 30m 5b Climb the groove on the left passing a steepening into a short v-groove. Belay just above, below a short steep jamming crack using large cams.
9. 40m 5a/b Climb the jamming crack and follow the line, taking a detour out right onto a ledge to climb an easy slab on large but friable holds on coarse rock. continue to a chimney and a belay above among blocks.
10) 50m 5a Climb a short corner, just up and right then continue up and right on easier ledges.
11) 30m 5a Climb one last pitch easily up left then back right to a final steepening. Belay just above on blocks. This is at the bottom right of a very large summit block with easy finishing slabs to the right. Scramble to the top.
Descent
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