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# on Topo: 

Scala del Cielo

7

First ascensionists' grade:

IV

Max estimated grade:

5a

Length:

Pitches:

First Ascent:

13-18

Daniele Chiappa, Andrea Anati

Year of FA:

1978

# of bolts en route:

trad

Approach

the route is well visible from the village. From the Moonland camp, through a small pass, enter the wadi Shrej gorge and, along large scree and gentle slabs, approach the center of the wide northern ridge of the southwestern peak of Safsafa. 30 minutes from Moonland Camp. [Misha]

Route description

NW face of Safsafa

safsafaNorthWestTopo

A long, easy route to the highest peak of Safsafa with two short but fun keys :)) Total climbing time from the beginning of the route is 8 hours. Approximate difficulty 3B.

P1-P8. On simple (III) and medium-difficulty rocks (IV) of the wide northern ridge, reach the top of the first peak. The comb is a series of short walls and shelves. You have to walk on the shelves left and right and look for acceptable passages up. Periodically come across short, but rather difficult sections. Lots of convenient station locations. From the beginning of the route to the first peak 4 hours 30 minutes, approximately 300 meters.

P9. Descend from the top of the first peak a little to the left onto a ledge. On the [slab] there is a descent station on two hooks interlocked with a sling with a trigger ring. Dylfer 15 meters per saddle on the ridge.

P10. 15 meters V. From the center of the saddle straight up 3 meters, then to the left up under the overhang. Go around the overhang on the left and go to the ledge. Insurance with small bookmarks and at the top with friends. An old hook is hammered under the overhang.

R11. 15 meters V. From the ledge go straight up the overhang through the narrow short fireplace and go to the next ledge.

R12. 200 meters II. Up the vegetable gardens to the top.

[Misha]

Descent

From the top, go down a little back to the platform with two wooden poles and a fire pit. From here down to the north-north-east on foot to the saddle. Further along the gorge to the right to the southeast down to a small monastery. From the monastery to the right to the south climb the pass and further down into the gorge of wadi Shrej. Continue to the right along the path to the village. The total descent time is two and a half hours. [Misha]

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