top of page
< Back

Scala del Cielo

Area
Sector
Pitches
FAGrade
Grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
St Catherine
Safsafa NW Face
13-18
IV
5a
trad
Chiappa, Anati
1978

A long, easy route to the highest peak of Safsafa with two short but fun keys :)) Total climbing time from the beginning of the route is 8 hours. Approximate difficulty 3B.

P1-P8. On simple (III) and medium-difficulty rocks (IV) of the wide northern ridge, reach the top of the first peak. The comb is a series of short walls and shelves. You have to walk on the shelves left and right and look for acceptable passages up. Periodically come across short, but rather difficult sections. Lots of convenient station locations. From the beginning of the route to the first peak 4 hours 30 minutes, approximately 300 meters.

P9. Descend from the top of the first peak a little to the left onto a ledge. On the [slab] there is a descent station on two hooks interlocked with a sling with a trigger ring. Dylfer 15 meters per saddle on the ridge.

P10. 15 meters V. From the center of the saddle straight up 3 meters, then to the left up under the overhang. Go around the overhang on the left and go to the ledge. Insurance with small bookmarks and at the top with friends. An old hook is hammered under the overhang.

R11. 15 meters V. From the ledge go straight up the overhang through the narrow short fireplace and go to the next ledge.

R12. 200 meters II. Up the vegetable gardens to the top.

[Misha]

Pitches
FAGrade
est. grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
13-18
IV
5a
trad
Chiappa, Anati
1978

the route is well visible from the village. From the Moonland camp, through a small pass, enter the wadi Shrej gorge and, along large scree and gentle slabs, approach the center of the wide northern ridge of the southwestern peak of Safsafa. 30 minutes from Moonland Camp. [Misha]

Write a report
Help others evaluate this Route by leaving your comment
Rate the route
PoorFairGoodVery goodExcellent

Thanks for sharing your experience!

bottom of page