# on Topo:
Tachtonei HaShahar
2
First ascensionists' grade:
7b, A2
Max estimated grade:
7b A2
Length:
4
Pitches:
First Ascent:
4
Shahar Kadmiel, Joel Ettinger
Year of FA:
2004
# of bolts en route:
trad
Approach
This is the left crack on j.Batta NE face, a few meters left of the "Seerauber". Approach from the Big Gully.
Route description
Pitch1: From Big gully (4b,4c) to the base of the crack.
Pitch2: 50m, A2. Start on the flake right of the main crack, 5m, good protection by rocks No1-3. Easy move to crack (piton after 3m will NOT take a fall). 3 more meters of slightly overhanging crack (A2) to good bolt. From here. a (more overhanging) crack (A1) with good protection by camalots(1,5-2,5). Crack becomes vertical (not overhanging), but wider; 2 camalots size 5 required. Then finger width fissure to stance in a widening space allowing 1 person to stand.
Pitch3: 40m, A1. 15m of finger-width fissure, after which wider crack, chimney climb, exit after 4m. Follow direct crack (possible also Left crack) in a 3 meters free climb(4), then 5m of A1, and free(4) again to stance in the little cave to join the final part of "Seerauber". From here, a slim climber can crawl into tight crack, exit, and secure a fixed line on the outside for his "more bulky" partner
Pitch4: Easy scramble to the top
Hightly recommended as an AID-climbing training
Descent
Helpful Images
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