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# on Topo: 

Broken Heart

1

First ascensionists' grade:

1Brussian

Max estimated grade:

2

Length:

Pitches:

First Ascent:

4

Mikhail Khomenyuk, Stas Bragin

Year of FA:

2011

# of bolts en route:

trad

Approach

The length of approaches is 4.41 kilometers. Summit coordinates: 28.594861 34.519741 Approach start coordinates: 28.556422 34.522813 Approaches. Behind the Canyon dive site, turn perpendicular to the sea into the first large valley. By car, you can drive about a kilometer from the sea deep into the valley to the picnic area. Further along the picturesque canyon, climb towards the pass to the Bir el Ogda oasis. The canyon system on the approaches is quite confusing. You should choose the widest gorge at the forks. On the way, you will have to overcome four walls of dried-up waterfalls. The height of the walls is 6-8 meters. Difficulty is approximately 5A. Arranging insurance for the first one is problematic, but it is reassuring to fall on soft, even sand if something happens. For the descent on the top of the first wall, an iron corner is clogged, on the other three there are bolts on the top. The second wall with a huge wedged stone, goes up on the left side, and for the descent, the bolt is hammered to the right of the stone, when viewed from below. After the second wall at the fork, you need to turn right and after 50 meters you will run into the third stack, which also runs along the left side. Immediately after the third wall, the fourth wall is passed through the center. Further up the canyon, which begins to gradually expand. Before reaching the pass, turn right under the wall along a small gorge. The beginning of the route is along a large flat slab cut in the middle by a crack. At the beginning of the route grows acacia. From the place of picnics to the beginning of the route 2-3 hours.

Route description

jebelLabaTopo

A beautiful warm-up and excursion route to the observation mountain Laba in the vicinity of Dahab. Travel time including approaches, ascent and return 8-14 hours. The route is suitable for beginners. Mount Laba along the central fault of the southern wall, 1B, first ascent: Mikhail Homeniuk and Stas Bragin 01/10/2011.

GPS data: Mount Laba is 846 meters high.
The height of the starting point of the technical part of the route is 657 meters.

P1. 55m, III, IV-. From the acacia straight up the crack in the center of the inclined slab 30 meters III, 60 degrees. Further a wall of 15 meters with a simple organization of the belay IV-. The station is on a large stone at the base of the inner corner. R2. 50m, III, II. up the inside corner. Convenient station inside the fireplace on two large friends. P3. 50m, IV, II. Route key. Exit the fireplace to the sloping slab on the left, go under the sheer wall, and climb the oblique crack up 10 meters from Station IV. Further flattening inner corner II. The station is at the end of the inner corner on one of the ledges. P4. 100m II. Straight up the vegetable gardens with small walls. Still, you want to periodically put insurance points. Exit to the top dome.

From the dome to the left along the ridge 50 meters to the top, with almost no climb. The route takes 2 - 3 hours.

Descent

Descend along the ridge towards the sea, carefully over bad rock to the saddle between the top and the gendarme. Pass through the gendarme and carefully descend along the ruined rocks to the saddle. From the saddle to the right along a wide talus couloir, adhering to the rocks on the right side, go down to the beginning of the route. Further down the gorge along the path of ascent. The walls of dried waterfalls are passed down by a rappel - there are stationary hooks and bolts.

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