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# on Topo: 



First ascensionists' grade:


Max estimated grade:




First Ascent:


Mikhail Khomenyuk, Jaimie Browne

Year of FA:


# of bolts en route:



Behind the Canyon dive site, turn perpendicular to the sea into the first large valley. By car, you can drive about a kilometer from the sea deep into the valley to the picnic area. Further along the picturesque canyon, climb towards the pass to the Bir el Ogda oasis. The canyon system on the approaches is quite confusing. You should choose the widest gorge at the forks. On the way, you will have to overcome four walls of dried-up waterfalls. The height of the walls is 6-8 meters. Difficulty is approximately 5A. It is problematic to organize insurance for the first one, but it is reassuring that if something happens, you will fall on soft, even sand. For the descent on the top of the first wall, an iron corner is clogged, on the other three there are bolts on the top. The second wall with a huge wedged stone, goes up on the left side, and for the descent, the bolt is hammered to the right of the stone, when viewed from below. After the second wall at the fork, you need to turn right and after 50 meters you will run into the third stack, which also runs along the left side. Immediately after the third wall, the fourth wall is passed through the center. Further up the canyon, which begins to gradually expand. Before reaching the pass, turn right under the wall along a small gorge. The beginning of the route is along the inner corner on the right side of the large flat slab. The route starts 100-150 meters to the right of the Broken Heart route. From the place of picnics to the beginning of the route 2-2.5 hours.

Route description


Warm-up route to the Eastern peak of Mount Laba in the vicinity of Dahab. Easy slab climbing. To organize belay on the slabs, it is recommended to have 3-4 rock anchors. Estimated difficulty 2A. The time for passing the technical part is 2 hours 30 minutes.
Moray route, Mount Laba, Eastern peak, along the southern wall, 2A. P1. 55m, III. Along the inner corner on the right side of a large flat slab. Station on the flattening of the inner corner.

R2. 50m, III. Up and to the left along an implicit crack in the slab. Insurance is not always obvious. You will need 3-4 rock anchors. Station on small friends in the inner corner on the left side of the slab.

P3. 50m, III. Traverse right up into the inner corner, and further up the inner corner. Beware of live rocks. Station in the inner corner.

P4. 50m, III. On the slab, to the left of the inner corner (living stones in the corner), climb to the end of the slab and go right up to the summit ridge. On the ridge to the top on foot 20-30 meters.

The route takes 2.5 hours.


Carefully descend along the ruined rocks along the ridge to the right to the east to the saddle. From the saddle to the right along a wide talus couloir, adhering to the rocks on the right side, go down to the beginning of the route.

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