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AAA or Battered or Motorhead

# in Topo
Sector
Pitches
FAGrade
Grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
6
Batta NE face
2
6b
8
trad
Dave, Misha, Dutson, Orlov & others
2014
Topo #
Pitches
FAGrade
est. grade
Length
Bolts
Setters
year
6
2
6b
8
trad
Dave, Misha, Dutson, Orlov & others
2014

P1. 30m. VI+. Up the crack, widening in one place to the width of the fireplace. The station is flattening above the fissure.

P2. 30m. IV. Climb up the beautiful easy hand-jam crack in the stove to the right of the fireplace. Station on a convenient shelf.

Battered description:
1) 5b, 35m. Climb the offwidth to a sloping ledge belay before it steepens.
2) 4a, 30m. Continue up the corner crack and belay next to a big chimney to your left.
3) 4b, 40m. Climb the chimney on your left and then follow the ramp and cracks to a dome shaped boulder. Pass this on the left hand side and then belay on the ledge.
4) 6a, 40m. Continue up crack climbing underneath an arch passing a bolt and a peg (placed before first recorded ascent) as it trends left. As the arch runs out climb through the roof on crimps and 5 thin cracks up and left. To belay on a small ledge and crack.
5) 4c, 60m. Continue up chimney to the top ledge. The route is shown in the image below as the left hand of the three routes marked
[Dave]

Motorhead description:
The names of the pioneers are not known. However, 3 hammered bolts and two hooks were found on the route, one of which fell out during the installation of the station. Dave Lucas climbed the route in front of us , he determined the difficulty of the key climbing section, since we used an aid. The description of the route could not be found anywhere. We suggest a name: Motorhead. Dave Lucas reported that they named the route: Battered.

Option 1 coincides with the start of route B7 Stolen Mirror:

P1. 50m. III, IV-. Up the wide fireplace is easy climbing. The station is on a shelf inside the fireplace on a ledge on the right.

R2. 50m. IV. After the station, go traverse to the left and slightly up into the couloir. A huge wedged stone will climb to the left. Slightly up the couloir. Next are two options. Climb along the inner corner between the slab and large layers of granite. Insurance with large numbers. Or go out of the couloir to the left, and climb along a beautiful, simple hand-jam crack. Station on a convenient shelf.

Option 2 is the same as Alexander Orlov's AAA route:

P1. 30m. VI+. Up the crack, widening in one place to the width of the fireplace. The station is flattening above the fissure.

P2. 30m. IV. Climb up the beautiful easy hand-jam crack in the stove to the right of the fireplace. Station on a convenient shelf. Next comes the independent line.

P3. 30m. IV. Left up through two fireplaces separated by a shelf. Shelf station.

P4. 30m. IV. Traverse to the right, then the inner corner-fireplace. Station on a shelf at the base of an internal corner with a crack. P5. 20m. VI+ or A1. Up the crack in the inner corner. The station is semi-hanging on a small shelf with a bolt. Or you can climb another three meters and make a station in a relatively convenient pocket at your points. P6. 40m. VI, VIII-, A1. Traverse to the left under the overhang follow the crack. Passing the overhang is the key. Further after the overhang, follow the crack to the inner corner. On the inner corner up, slightly to the right. Station on a convenient shelf. There are two bolts. P7. 40m. V. Up through two fireplaces separated by a shelf. Station on a large shelf.

R8. 200m. II. Going to the right along the easy rocks, go to the very end of route B7. Stolen Mirror. Then walk to the top along the simple rocks.
[Misha]

battaNEfacetopo
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