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Allah's back hander

12

First ascensionists' grade:

E5 5b, 6a, 4c, 4a

Max estimated grade:

7a+

Length:

148

Pitches:

First Ascent:

5

Dave Lucas, Richard Sonnerdale

Year of FA:

# of bolts en route:

trad

Approach

Route description

1) 58m (E1 5b) Climb crack (hands) to boulders then traverse
right into another crack and then climb into a chimney/groove to overhang and choice of cracks straight up is best.
2) 35m E5 5c/6a Climb up into short crack (right) then back left to base of chimney. Climb in Chimney good protection. Climb out of chimney at overlap (2.5 quadcam). Bridge and layback up offwidth to the second overlap (unprotected
crux) and place camalot 4 and 3 then climb over the overlap traverse to flake. Climb flake (crack/offwidth) past bush to block belay.
3) 35m VS 4c. Climb the crack and trend left into crack proper gain break and climb the two cracks to a chimney and belay.
4) 20m S,4a. Clim groove /crack to a small chimney climb under/round the boulder to the ledge.
5) Finish as the pitch 6 of Hand of Allah

Descent

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