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# on Topo: 

Beginner’s Route


First ascensionists' grade:


Max estimated grade:





First Ascent:


Terry Taylor, Edna Goury

Year of FA:


# of bolts en route:



Route description

NW Face


All types of the Sinai relief are collected in one route!

P1. 50 m. II-III. Up the right side of the rift. Bypass the wedged stone at the top to the left.

R2. 40m. IV. Wedged a huge stone to go around the wall on the right.

P3. 100m. II. Walk along the fault until it hits the wall.

P4. 30m. IV, V+. Up the inner corner with a wide crack for big friends. Station on a shelf at the base of the fireplace.

P5. 30m. IV+. Up the fireplace. After the first shelf, continue along the right branch of the fireplace into the overhanging grotto. At the top of the grotto, climb through the elephant's ear from right to left. The station is on a shelf in the grotto behind the elephant's ear.

P6. 30m. V. Exit the grotto to the shelf on the left, and continue along the inner corner. Station on a large spacious shelf.

P7. 30m. V, IV. Up the inner corner with a crack. In the upper part there is an exit to the relief with large caverns blown out. The station coincides with the fifth station of route R10.

R8. 40m. IV-. Easy climbing to the right up under the base of a huge stone. There is a grotto under the stone, there is a shelf in it. Friends station

P9. 50m. IV. Exit from the grotto to the left up. After reaching the flattening, keep to the right up. The station is in the inner corner before the fissure leading up.

R10.50m. IV, III. Up along the fissure 5 meters IV, further along the couloir to the large ledge III.

R11. 200m. n.c. From the large shelf move up to the right, then to the left up the inclined shelves. Go around the top tower on the left and go to the top.

Original description: Up the left chimney(III to IV). At third pitch avoid overhang by R detour(IV+). After fifth pitch follow R gully and to more easy pitches to top.

Details of first few pitches: Easy short pitch (2) to base of narrow crack. Easy short pitch following crack (II except for exit from crack III+, L of chockstone). Walk to big boulder, climb behind it III, then II or II+ for a few pitches to more steep walls. Climb delicate pitch on front wall IV+ to good stance in niche.

(in pencil): Route unfinished (May '84), nut left in niche, but looks easy all the way to the top. Route includes easy slabs, easy faces easy jammings, recommended to beginners(comment by Misha: not recommended for beginners, not as easy as it seems)


main summit descent

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