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# on Topo: 

Behind the elephant's ear


First ascensionists' grade:

E1 5a, 4b, 4a, 5b, 3c, 3c, -, 4b, 5a, -, 5a, 4c

Max estimated grade:





First Ascent:


Richard Waltham, Jonathan Prager

Year of FA:


# of bolts en route:



Route description

Ras El Qalb


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1) 35m, 5a. Ascend the chimney with increasing difficulty until some bold bridging
enables a flake and crack to the right to be gained. Ascend this, worrying, to a belay
ledge (blocks)
2) 10m, 4b. Pull into the slanting chimney above and climb more easily to belay on the
3) 15m, 4a. Pull into the cleft and climb up and leftwards to belay on a large ledge. (easy
escape off left )
4) 30m, 5b. Initial steep jamming leads to groove/flake (some hollow/friable rock) to a
belay back right beneath a crack.
5) 30m, 3c. Easier climbing up the crack leads to a terrace/ledge.
6) 20m, 3c. Climb the flared crack formed by the large blocky flakes. Continue
rightwards to the base of the chimneys which lead to the overhang above.
7) 20m, -. Spurn the chimneys in favour of the *** cave – walk through/down to belay
on the large chockstone/boulder on the outside edge of the cavern, beneath a scalloped
8) 15m, 4b. A bold pitch, protectionless, up the slab leads to a cave belaylevel with an
obvious traverse line.
9) 15m, 5a. An intimidating and cramped traverse leads around the arête ( there is a big
hidden hold around the arête). Continue until bridging across the chimney is possible.
10) 20m, -. Climb out into the rib and up a slabby groove.
11) 25m, 5a. Climb corner crack, the right hand crack of three, (jam then layback) to easy
scramble leftwards.
12) 15m, 4c. Short jam crack and then finger crack leads to final steps to summit


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