Approach
Route description
Variation of "Mask": 2 pitches right (III-IV) till crack. 2 pitches follow the crack towards left till large lodge under vertical band halfway up the mask. One short AID pitch up a slab (3 pitons) to concave stance, then exit right up thin crack on bad rock (2 pitons, 5 chokes) (V- A1), one pitch traversing up left (IV), 3 pitches following crack directly up leaving mask on the left and reaching wall of the main mountain (III-IV), 2 pitches up a beautiful black chimney of smooth rock, negative dike (IV-IV+). Up the chimney behind medium chockstone (IV), get out on the right (very exposed V-) and up to stance. 2 pitches following the chimney till it ends under a steep wall (III+). 2 pitches in a gully on the right till a weak point in the wall and up till the summit rocks (III).
Descent
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