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# on Topo: 

Black Dyke


First ascensionists' grade:

V-, A1

Max estimated grade:





First Ascent:


Victor Kaftal, Bruce Devens

Year of FA:


# of bolts en route:



Route description

Older Topo of NW Face


From israeli wiki:

N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)

Variation of "Mask": 2 pitches right (III-IV) till crack. 2 pitches follow the crack towards left till large lodge under vertical band halfway up the mask. One short AID pitch up a slab (3 pitons) to concave stance, then exit right up thin crack on bad rock (2 pitons, 5 chokes) (V- A1), one pitch traversing up left (IV), 3 pitches following crack directly up leaving mask on the left and reaching wall of the main mountain (III-IV), 2 pitches up a beautiful black chimney of smooth rock, negative dike (IV-IV+). Up the chimney behind medium chockstone (IV), get out on the right (very exposed V-) and up to stance. 2 pitches following the chimney till it ends under a steep wall (III+). 2 pitches in a gully on the right till a weak point in the wall and up till the summit rocks (III).


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