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# on Topo: 



First ascensionists' grade:

VII, 5.10+

Max estimated grade:





First Ascent:


Hanina Kali, Yoav Nir

Year of FA:


# of bolts en route:



Same as other routes (Papa, Warshaw). Morning is shade, afternoon sun; take at least 2 liters water per person.

Route description

Older Topo of NW Face


From israeli wiki:

N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)

This excellent route is going between "Warshaw-Tel-Aviv direct" and "Via del Papa", conversing with the "Grand hand traverse" and "Chockstone" chimney variations of the latter. Five pitches at of eight are highly recommended, four of these five being continuous 5.10 climbing on solid rock, positioned beautifully with much exposure and the thrill of being high up yet well protected and safety "jammable".

Pitch1: Climb fine lines between chimneys of "Warshaw" and "Papa" till ledge full rope length above (5.10).

Pitch2: Walk up from the ledge roped or unroped till base of crack system leading to blackly ledges (5.4) 50m.

Pitch3: Climb finger/hand - jam crack, exit onto ledge via easy off-width corner then up to second ledge below small roof (5.10) 40m.

Pitch4: Climb down and right (to the right and below is roof variation of "Via del Papa"). Go up thin cracks in thin dyke. Continue up double cracks till belay at base of leaning off-width (5.10+) 45m.

Pitch5: Climb easy off-width then enter "Grand Hand Traverse" going diagonally right. Belay at end of traverse (5.10+) 30m.

Pitch6: Straight up from end of traverse, bad rock, face and off-width moves. Pass ledge at the right, continue up and through "needle-eye" hole to the right (5.9) 25m.

Pitch7: Up easy but bad rock till base of "chockstone chimney". Up chimney to belay above chockstone (5.8) 45m.

Pitch8: Climb up crack till it eases of to form narrow gully (5.8) 30m


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