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# on Topo: 

Captain Obvious


First ascensionists' grade:

Max estimated grade:




First Ascent:


Lionel Reynard, Marco Richon

Year of FA:


# of bolts en route:



Route description

Northern East Face


60m ropes needed, micro cams/nuts and 3 or more #0.5 cams help for pitch 3, up to #5 recommended.
Pitch 1 (6b,6b+)Begin with the left crack(thin, pumpy) as the right crack is closed from the ground. Easier after the traverse, belay on good flake before traversepitch.

Pitch 2 (6b,6b+): Traverse with your feet on the ledge first, then lower a little, good protection before vertical crux part, micro nuts useful

Pitch 3 (7a.7a+): Wonderful sharp and pumpy dihedral layback style, then one hard crux move on overhang. Big sizes up to #5 useful for belay under dusty chimney

Pitch 4 (6a+,6b): Sketchy dusty chimney, once out if it beautiful climbing on sharp crack. Possible belay on crack or small flake higher up.

Pitch 5 (6a+): Walk 15m to the left then go up the rocky gully. To he right through slightly overhanging dihedral at beginning (cru10) then find your way up to the left over dusty loose rocks. Last part to top 4 easy climb, good belay options


main descent

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