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Chapa Wapa

E20

First ascensionists' grade:

V+, A0, roof VI+

Max estimated grade:

6b A0

Length:

Pitches:

First Ascent:

4

Andrea Anati, Alon Newton

Year of FA:

1988

# of bolts en route:

trad

Approach

Route description

"Chapa" is one of the possible continuations of "Fistuk Halabi" to the summit

Pitch1: 35m, V+, A0. Start climbing at fissure right of the wide crack. First couple of meters slightly overhand (A0). Estimated free-climb difficulty VI- to VI. After that, the fissure splits into 2 cracks, follow the right one, a V+ fist jam to easier mixed-style climb to saddle - point (col).

Pitch2 60m, second half unroped, one passage of IV. Traverse right and down along boulders for about 15m (3), then turn left and up for about 15 more meters (IV-). Continue through narrow passage then right to base of crack.

Pitch3: 25m, IV-. Relatively easy to base of wall. Pitch4: 20m, V A0. There are three main possibility: A. delicate face climbing on left with numerous steps locks easy but totally unprotected (not even attempted). B. wide vertical crack, well protected, at the corner, but in the horizontal crack (right, after about 7m) no protection could be found. Attempted but retreated. C. Narrow crack right of corner in center of face. We follow this last (C) option. Mixed finger jam and layback (5), well protected. A0 (pulling a sling) at the flared exit of crack. Continue easily to stance just below the out.

Note by Andrea: Next time "Chapa Wapa" will go FREE!!!

Descent

as in "Friday Rush"

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