Direct Start

A superb route of continuous beauty! Walk 200m right to big face, then right 100m to the left of a small dry waterfall. Description: Start at “stepped” rocks (IV+) to chimney. Climb chimney (V+), turn right to slabs, then up fissures (V) to base of wide crack on left with two conspicuous stones. Up crack to its end (V+), then right in “canal” to the right of face. Two more pitches of III, then up corner (2 pitches of V) to summit ridge. NB. The corner between the pitch1 of “Direct Start” and slab to the right is now protected by bolts and pitons, making a more attractive (VI-) first pitch. NB. There are 3 bolted ways from base of slab to first station of “Direct Start”. All three graded V+ to VI.