Approach
At the right hand end of the main wall the right facing corner system.
Route description
Big cams to cam 5 are essential. If you find the start (not difficult) therest follows naturally. A grand day out!
1) 35m, 5a. Climb a blank runnel to slab. Follow the obvious crack to belay at the foot of a capped chimney.
2) 50m, 5b. Turn the rapping block carefully. Up to a rounded boss then downclimb its right hand side to reach the first of the wide cracks. Follow this to belay below a bulge.
3) 35m, 5a. Overcome the bulge make your way room with a view ledge and have lunch!
4) 60m, 5b. Climb the right facing corner – a full 60m! Belay on top of a bulgy lake. Excellent!
5) 40m, 5b/c. The BIG pitch – in every way! From the belay, step down and across to the base of the off-width. Gurd your loins and commence battle! Belay in a slabby area with a choice of 2 exits. (kneepads advised)
6) 40m, 5b. The cleaner right hand exit, slightly run out with exfoiliating rock to content with. Cross a level area to a final awkward crack. Belay above.
Descent
Head off right to the gully. Scramble down as far as the bush/tree thing and some fixed gear. Ab down to the path, shake one another’s hands heartily
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