Approach
from the Fox camp, climb up the Wadi Shrei gorge. The beginning of the route is 50 meters to the right of the large fireplace at the bottom of the wall. Landmark long inside corner visually in the middle of the wall. The lower part of the route is well visible from the trail. 40 minutes from Fox Camp.[Misha]
Route description
First ascent: Vladimir Moroz, Mikhail Homeniuk 01/22/2018. 9 pitches, IV, V to VI+, passage time 9 hours. The height difference on the route is 350 meters. Route start coordinates (point on the trail): 28.551553 33.960110, height 1761m. Peak coordinates: 28.552477 33.962980, height 2149m.
P1. 80 meters III-IV. Climb along the garden wall to the beginning of the inner corner. A 60m rope was used, after the station, along simple rocks, they approached the base of P2 on a convenient ledge.
R2. 80 meters IV - VI. up the inside corner. Take to the right at the top. The belayer had to climb in the lower part of the site, and after an uncomfortable station crawl up a little to a convenient ledge.
P 3,4,5,6. about 120-150m. IV, V, VI+. On the rocky gardens go up to the right, to the fault leading to the top. On P4 - a wide fireplace between the wall and the leaning block, on P6 a short VI + key.
P7. 30m. VI. Sheer back-knees fireplace.
R 8.9. 100m. V, VI+. Up the rift. A series of fireplaces and internal corners. Exit to the ridge. On the ridge to the left 20m to the top.
[Misha]
Descent
from the top, move along the ridge towards the village. Carefully go down to the shoulder with two wooden pillars, and then go down to the right, to the north to a wide saddle. From the saddle to the right to the monastery of the Belt of the Most Holy Theotokos. Go around the monastery on the right, and then along the paved path towards Mount Moses, or turn right from the monastery, go up to the pass and go down to the Wadi Shrei gorge.[Misha]
Helpful Images
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