Safsafa NE Face
Rani Calvo, Andrea Anati, 1985
From first summit (end of Hatchala Meshuleshet route) scramble down gully on left and up adjacent buttress heading (unroped) for owla - looking rock. Towards the end: two short pitches III+ and V
The route consists of two parts. The first part is positioned as an independent route called E11. Hatchala Meshuleshet, and ends at the ridge leading to the summit. The second part of the route leads to the Safsafa plateau. Travel time is about 6 hours. Approximate difficulty 4A.
P1. 50m. III. Along the crevice along the inner corner with pleasant climbing (50°) to a large cavern on the left. Three people can freely accommodate in the cavern. Station on two hollow columns in the upper part of the cavern.
P2. 60m. IV-. Further up the inner corner, a little more difficult. The station at the top of the padding on the ledge on the left - there is a descent loop from the main rope.
P3. 40m. III-. Along the crack in the slab, almost on foot, you can simultaneously reach the fireplace with a horizontal floor.
P4. 60m. V, IV-. Key area - 6 meters narrow fireplace, V or ITO A0. It is held in the thrust of the back - knees, you can hold on to the embedded elements. Further by simple climbing along the flattening crack, in some places up to IV-. The next fireplace bypasses on the left along a sloping mirror. Quite a lot of convenient places for the station, but we went all the way to win on the next section.
P5. 50-60m. IV. Along the gutter, cascading up and to the right. Sheer sections are replaced by shelves. Exit to a large terrace. The station is on one of the ledges on the terrace.
Route E11 ends here. Hatchala Meshuleshet. On the right, a noticeable tour marks the beginning of the descent. On the left rises the bastion of the summit.
P6. 150m. On foot, at the same time. To the left up the ravine, go around a small wall on the left. Move towards the spongy rock under the summit bastion. Reach a small pass separating the ridge from the porous rock.
P7. 50m. Key V, then in places III. Descend 5 meters to the saddle and climb 2 meters to the ledge. For insurance, you can hang a loop on a blown column in the center of the [slab]. Two key options. The first option: on the [slab] to the right 2 meters. You can put a rock anchor on top of the [slab]. It's pretty shaky, but it's better than nothing. Gently move to the blowout on the right, and from there roll onto the left leg and go out onto the ledge. One movement 6a. I used a left hand skyhook as there is no active hold for the left hand. Andrey with the top harness passed the key from the [slab] right in the forehead. One move 6b. Then you get up to two large handles and then you can easily go out onto the [slab]. From the [slab] to the left along the crack III meters 15. Further along the vegetable gardens up the whole rope.
P8. 100m. II. At the same time, along the spongy rock, approach the summit bastion. Bypassing the bastion on the right is too difficult, there is no insurance, and what's next is not clear. Directly - a convenient [slab], above it is a wall 25 meters, 80 degrees, dissected by a crack from top to bottom. The crack widens upward. Ten meters later, a loop of cord is visible in the crack. I would have climbed this crack, but my partner expressed skepticism about this, and we decided to look for an easier way.
P9. 30m. III. To the left up the inner corner, go around the large stone on the left and go straight up to the large ledge at the base of the inner corner.
P10. 40m. V, IV. Up the inner corner of 3 meters, exit to the right to a zigzag crack in the slab and climb along it to the next large ledge. From the station to the [slab] 15m. V. Further 10m. fireplace IV. Next flattening. Station on any convenient ledge after flattening.
R11. 50-60 meters walk to the top.
Rani Calvo, Andrea Anati, 1985
From the village, go around the Safsafa massif on the left, move towards the monastery of St. Catherine. Before reaching the first police checkpoint, turn right and move towards the huge slab on the left side of the ridge descending from the central peak. The route goes along the inner corner between the slab on the right and the rock patch on the left. The outlines of the plate resemble the mainland Africa. You can, of course, start from the parking lot behind the checkpoint to the right straight up, but who knows what the police have in mind. On Mount Moses, for example, they do not let you through without a Bedouin guide. From the village to the beginning of the route 40 minutes on foot. [Misha]