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Gas Attack

Area
Sector
Pitches
FAGrade
Grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
St Catherine
Mahshour East face
8
E3 6a, 4, 6b+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6a
7c
311
trad
Dave Lucas, Martin Richards
2008

3-star Scramble up past the starts of the nun flake routes. 50m. i) 6a, 35m Climb up the first chimney then into off-width but climb the wall to the left onto small ledge and pocket. Move up onto ramp and then up steep overlaps. Traverse 30m right to the base of corner. ii) 4, 32m Up the groove to the base of the steep corner. iii) 6b+ 24m. Up the corner with gear at first but soon becomes run out. Climb to the good hold and exit up right to steepening crack. Climb over this to belay at the base of the main crack. iv) 6a, 28m. Up and belay under steep overlap using thin crack to left of main off-width. v) 6a+, 15m. Move up overlap and into a hand crack, which becomes steep. Belay at base of cave. *Possible to run pitch 4 and 5 together but be careful not to run out of gear. vi) 6b, 24m. Move up width/chimney then make great moves under the overhang and round the nose. Climb more easily up to the end of the crack. vii) 6a, 28m. Climb out of crack using the thin seam to the right. Climb past the good bit of gear then run it out further right to a crack and gully follow to large ledge. viii) Scramble to the ledge

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