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# on Topo: 

Geissenpeter

4

First ascensionists' grade:

VI+ roof VII-

Max estimated grade:

6c

Length:

310

Pitches:

First Ascent:

9-10

Ruedi Homberger, Armin Rempfler, Fritz Roth, Alex Clapasson

Year of FA:

1983

# of bolts en route:

trad

Approach

the route is well visible from the village. Approaches on large scree take about 40 minutes. The route starts along pronounced cracks in the inner corner, 50 meters to the left of the classic Papa Giovanni route.[Misha]

Route description

A strong, beautiful route along the center of the main wall of Mount Safsafa.

P1. 25m. V. Up the column leaning against the wall. Insurance along the crack to the right of the column. Station on a [slab] at the top of a column. There is a bolt and two hooks.

R2. 35m. 15m VI, 20m III. Up along the crack in the inner corner, in the upper part there is an "of-weeds" crack. After flattening on easy rocks 20m up to the left to the station on a ledge in a large crevice. Station at its points.

P3. 60m. 15m IV, 45m VI+. From the station, go around the overhang on the right on the inclined slab, then return to the inner corner to the left. Further up the cracks in the inner corner. Station on a [slab], on a ledge. There are many old hinges on the ledge.

P4. 60m. 40m VI+ A0-A1, 20m III. Up along the cracks in the inner corner to the oblique ledge going up to the left. The original route in this place takes to the right along the difficult terrain. On the sloping [slab] to the left, an easy climb up to a convenient station at the base of a large fireplace.

P5. 60m. IV. Left up a simple fireplace with a large [slab] in the middle to the top of a large patch on the main wall. There are options to leave the station to the right and straight up the more difficult rocks. The "Uncle Petya" option is the easiest way to finish the route. The station is at the base of a slick but lying inner corner. Further, the route coincides with the route N6 The Mask.

P6. 60m. IV - III. Up the inner corner, then taking to the left to the saddle, and then up. Station - where necessary.

P7. 60m. II. Up the vegetable gardens to the top.

The height of the peak according to GPS is 2046m.

[Misha]

Descent

from the top go down to the right to the saddle. From the saddle move to the right and slightly up, going around the top bastions on the left, and focusing on the tours. Climb a little to the right up to the platform between the rocky towers. From here, to the left, you have a view of Mount Moses. Go down the couloir towards Mount Moses to a small monastery. Turn around the monastery on the left and go out onto a paved path leading from the gates of the monastery to the foot of Mount Moses. From here, go down the Monk's stairs to the left to the monastery of St. Catherine - a standard tourist route. In addition, it is possible to go to Wadi Arbain, turning off the paved path onto an inconspicuous path to the right, or go down to the road between the village and the monastery of St. Catherine, turning left from the first monastery into a rather steep gorge.[Misha]

Helpful Images

These images have been submitted by climbers, to help others on their adventure.

These are the numbers corresponding to the Topo #

AsafsafaGBTopo

At the very top right in this picture you can see the notch of the correct descent col with grassy ground and fairly simple descent. The saddle is roughly at (28.5491091, 33.9646042)

SafsafaGardenchapel

N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)

safsafaNorthWestTopo

topoAroundPapaGeissen
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