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Gruffalo

# in Topo
Sector
Pitches
FAGrade
Grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
2
Fara West Face
7
V A1
5c+ A1
7 pitches
trad
Misha & Anna Baturina
2012
Topo #
Pitches
FAGrade
est. grade
Length
Bolts
Setters
year
2
7
V A1
5c+ A1
7 pitches
trad
Misha & Anna Baturina
2012

rom the end of the asphalt road 15 minutes along the Wadi El Arbain gorge, to an oasis with cypresses. From the cypress trees straight up under the wall. The total approach time is 30 minutes. The route begins in a wide couloir - a fireplace in the center of the wall. From the Passover route about 100 meters to the left. We made contact after going up the couloir about twenty meters, until it was not scary without insurance.

Very good route! Direct and logical, pleasant varied climbing, strong rocks, reliable belay. Perhaps the best route from what I had a chance to go to Santa Caterina.
P1. 50m. IV+. Up the couloir - fireplace uniform climbing. Not hard, but not fast. (The urge to go left should be nipped in the bud. Otherwise, you won’t get to the right crack leading to the right. And you probably won’t get anywhere at all :) The station is standing, on a small inclined shelf in front of the beginning of the inner corner that goes to the right. Station at its points.

R2. 35m. IV, III. To the right up the inner corner is a pleasant climb. Station on a large convenient shelf on a ledge.

P3. 35m. IV, II. Up to the left at the base of the large fireplace. In the middle of the rope exit to the inclined ledge through the sheep's forehead.

P4. 35m. V. Pleasant climbing up the fireplace. The basalt vein on the mirror on the right makes life easier. Station on a convenient shelf on two ledges.

P5. 30m. V. Up the crack to the right of the fireplace, go under the large overhanging cornice. On a small shelf under the eaves, traverse to the right 5 meters. (From below, this place seemed to be the key to the entire route. In fact, the traverse turned out to be unexpectedly simple and pleasant. You walk along the ledge with your feet, and lean on the huge bun hanging over you with your shoulders. inclined shelf. Station at the top of the shelf at their points.

P6. 30m. V, A1. Up the crevasse 15 meters of climbing up to the ledge and further up the crevasse first by climbing, in the upper part of A1 A1 on ladders. The station is on a convenient shelf at its points. (We hammered in two hooks and laid a bookmark. We could not knock out one of these hooks).

P7. 30m. IV-. To the left up through a slightly overhanging stone, and further to the top. Station on a ledge.

The second version of the upper part of the route:

P6. 50m. V. Up the crack 15 meters of climbing to the ledge. From the ledge to the left up through the spall along a wide crack 10m. to the next shelf. Further to the left upwards, and through a short, slightly overhanging fireplace, go out onto a ledge. Station on a ledge.

P7. 15m. II. Exit to the top.

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