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Gruffalos Daughter

# in Topo
Sector
Pitches
FAGrade
Grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
1
Fara West Face
6
V
5c+
6 pitches
trad
Misha & Alexander Yurkin
2014
Topo #
Pitches
FAGrade
est. grade
Length
Bolts
Setters
year
1
6
V
5c+
6 pitches
trad
Misha & Alexander Yurkin
2014

from the village of Santa Caterina go to the main trail along the Wadi Arbain gorge. Go to the buildings with tall poplars, in front of them stands the characteristic bastion of the walls of Farah Glavnaya. Opposite the bastion, start climbing up the scree to the beginning of the wall. Climb up the rocky rise-“ramp” (on the right side) to a large ledge under the “Gruffalo” route from the ledge to the left upwards go (7 m) to the ledge at the base of a large vertical fissure-fireplace. Here is the launch pad. If the team is more than 2 people, it is recommended to dress on the shelf under the "Gruffalo". Approach from the village of Santa Caterina to the beginning of the route 40-50 minutes

First Ascent:
The route is quite logical and obvious. Almost all the time he walks along the huge crevices-fireplaces. Rock rocks - monolithic granite. Stations are all on convenient shelves, in safe places.

P1. From the sloping platform at the base of the inner corner straight up the large fireplace. The station is on a large shelf under a large wedged cork stone. 60m, 60g, III

P2. Move up the fireplace, crawl under the cork (fireplace climbing in the thrust of medium difficulty). After the traffic jam, you find yourself on an inclined shelf sprinkled with live stones. Continue straight ahead, do not turn right onto the wall, climb up the chimney-like porous relief. Reliable belay on friends, easy to pull the rope, convenient station on a ledge on a shelf under a large wedged stone. 40 m, 80 g, V.

P3. Move up to the right along the huge inner corner (the "mirror" on the left) to a vertical crack-fireplace, move 20 meters along the fireplace, then exit to a large convenient shelf for the station . 60 m 70 gr IV

P4. Move along the inner corner on the left side of the shelf, the difficult place in the middle of the corner is bypassed on the right (1 move IV+, Camalot #5) climbing of medium difficulty (20m). resting on overhangs, go to the right along the shelves towards a large characteristic vertical fissure-fireplace. At the base of it is a station. 50 m 70.III

P5. Up the fireplace (spreads, wedging, large cams (4-5) work well) 15 meters. Further to the right along the inclined shelf to a convenient shelf at the base of the inner corner. Shelf station. 30 m, 70 g, V-III

P4. Move along the inner corner on the left side of the shelf, the difficult place in the middle of the corner is bypassed on the right (1 move IV+, Camalot #5) climbing of medium difficulty (20m). resting on overhangs, go to the right along the shelves towards a large characteristic vertical fissure-fireplace. At the base of it is a station. 50 m 70.III

P5. Up the fireplace (spreads, wedging, large cams (4-5) work well) 15 meters. Further to the right along the inclined shelf to a convenient shelf at the base of the inner corner. Shelf station. 30 m, 70 g, V-III

Note: The route is quite logical and obvious. Almost all the time he walks along the huge crevices-fireplaces. Rock rocks - monolithic granite. There are a lot of "live" stones, on the first and second pitches - be careful! Stations are all on convenient shelves. To organize insurance along the entire route, there is a rich relief, and for climbing it is enough for climbers to have a set of embedded elements (bookmarks + friends) and loops. The presence of camalot No. 4 and No. 5 facilitates the passage of the fireplace in the area R4-R5. [Misha]

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