Approach
from the village of Santa Caterina go to the main trail along the Wadi Arbain gorge. Go to the buildings with tall poplars, in front of them stands the characteristic bastion of the walls of Farah Glavnaya. Opposite the bastion, start climbing up the scree to the beginning of the wall. Climb up the rocky rise-“ramp” (on the right side) to a large ledge under the “Gruffalo” route from the ledge to the left upwards go (7 m) to the ledge at the base of a large vertical fissure-fireplace. Here is the launch pad. If the team is more than 2 people, it is recommended to dress on the shelf under the "Gruffalo". Approach from the village of Santa Caterina to the beginning of the route 40-50 minutes
Route description
Fara Wadi Arbain (Passover Sector)
First Ascent:
The route is quite logical and obvious. Almost all the time he walks along the huge crevices-fireplaces. Rock rocks - monolithic granite. Stations are all on convenient shelves, in safe places.
P1. From the sloping platform at the base of the inner corner straight up the large fireplace. The station is on a large shelf under a large wedged cork stone. 60m, 60g, III
P2. Move up the fireplace, crawl under the cork (fireplace climbing in the thrust of medium difficulty). After the traffic jam, you find yourself on an inclined shelf sprinkled with live stones. Continue straight ahead, do not turn right onto the wall, climb up the chimney-like porous relief. Reliable belay on friends, easy to pull the rope, convenient station on a ledge on a shelf under a large wedged stone. 40 m, 80 g, V.
P3. Move up to the right along the huge inner corner (the "mirror" on the left) to a vertical crack-fireplace, move 20 meters along the fireplace, then exit to a large convenient shelf for the station . 60 m 70 gr IV
P4. Move along the inner corner on the left side of the shelf, the difficult place in the middle of the corner is bypassed on the right (1 move IV+, Camalot #5) climbing of medium difficulty (20m). resting on overhangs, go to the right along the shelves towards a large characteristic vertical fissure-fireplace. At the base of it is a station. 50 m 70.III
P5. Up the fireplace (spreads, wedging, large cams (4-5) work well) 15 meters. Further to the right along the inclined shelf to a convenient shelf at the base of the inner corner. Shelf station. 30 m, 70 g, V-III
P4. Move along the inner corner on the left side of the shelf, the difficult place in the middle of the corner is bypassed on the right (1 move IV+, Camalot #5) climbing of medium difficulty (20m). resting on overhangs, go to the right along the shelves towards a large characteristic vertical fissure-fireplace. At the base of it is a station. 50 m 70.III
P5. Up the fireplace (spreads, wedging, large cams (4-5) work well) 15 meters. Further to the right along the inclined shelf to a convenient shelf at the base of the inner corner. Shelf station. 30 m, 70 g, V-III
Note: The route is quite logical and obvious. Almost all the time he walks along the huge crevices-fireplaces. Rock rocks - monolithic granite. There are a lot of "live" stones, on the first and second pitches - be careful! Stations are all on convenient shelves. To organize insurance along the entire route, there is a rich relief, and for climbing it is enough for climbers to have a set of embedded elements (bookmarks + friends) and loops. The presence of camalot No. 4 and No. 5 facilitates the passage of the fireplace in the area R4-R5. [Misha]
Descent
Walk towards the village of St. Catherine (to the north) along a wide ridge. Walking along the ridge is everywhere on foot in places with small simple “slips”. It is necessary to keep to the ridge, the first part of the way to keep to the right side. Having reached a small top in the ridge, go to the left side. Landmark - standing on the ridge to the left on the way down, you will see a large descending couloir, leaving from the lintel in the Wadi Arbain gorge. Go around the intermediate summit on the terraces and go to the beginning of the couloir. Then walk down the couloir (while moving carefully with “live” stones, do not take off your helmets). In the lower part of the couloir before the failure there is a loop, from it a rappel is 25 m (a loop with a rapid hangs). Then walk along the talus to the main path of the gorge. From the top to the trail 1-1.5 hours
Helpful Images
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