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# on Topo: 

Half a yellow sun


First ascensionists' grade:

E2 5b, 5a, 5c, 4c, 4c, VDiff

Max estimated grade:





First Ascent:


Alex Twist, Martin Kocsis

Year of FA:


# of bolts en route:



This route starts beneath the left facing corner of the right hand shield on Little Rabba. Belay in the recess beneath a capping overhang.

Route description

1) 5b 35m Climb the parallel cracks in the left hand side of the recess with gradually increasing difficulty until good holds appear on the LH arête. From here make exposed technical moves up and left to reach easier ground. Continue to a good ledge with large boulder. (Spike belay behind boulder).
2) 5a 35m From behind the boulder, follow excellent natural features up and slightly right, until the cracks and holds run out. At this point, traverse delicately right 3m to the base of a left slanting corner. Climb this on positive smears with good protection and belay shortly after the peg. An excellent pitch.
3) 5c 30m 3 Place high gear above the belay (BD camalot 1 – red) and traverse rightwards on small holds to stand on a gritty pinnacle (low gear). Continue traversing rightwards until a finger rail appears and it is possible to step across into the corner. Climb the wall left of the corner using small but good protection in a thin crack to a final tricky move leftwards to a ledge. Drop down into a leftward facing corner and climb this to a small belay ledge.
4) 4c 25m Squirm and thrutch through the cleft and follow the groove until large cracks appear on the RH wall, allowing access to the next pitch.
5) 4c 30m Follow the cracks rightwards onto the front face of the shield. Climb this using a crack and corner at first, then sparsely protected slabs (micro cams useful) to enter the chimney above the capping overhang. Belay on the good ledge.
6) VDiff 30m Traverse left from the belay then start up the wide crack and continue easily to the top of the crag using any reasonable route


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