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Half a yellow sun

Area
Sector
Pitches
FAGrade
Grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
St Catherine
Little Rabba
6
E2 5b, 5a, 5c, 4c, 4c, VDiff
6c+
180
trad
Alex Twist, Martin Kocsis
2014

3-star, This route starts beneath the left facing corner of the right hand shield on Little Rabba.Belayintherecessbeneathacappingoverhang. 1) 5b35m Climb the parallel cracks in the left hand side of the recess with gradually increasingdifficultyuntilgoodholdsappearontheLHarête.Fromheremake exposed technicalmoves up and left to reacheasier ground. Continue to a goodledgewithlargeboulder.(Spikebelaybehindboulder). 2) 5a35m From behind the boulder, follow excellent natural features up and slightly right,untilthecracksandholdsrunout.Atthispoint,traversedelicatelyright 3m to the base ofaleft slanting corner. Climb this on positive smearswith goodprotectionandbelayshortlyafterthepeg.Anexcellentpitch. 3) 5c30m 3 Placehighgearabovethebelay(BDcamalot1– red)andtraverserightwards onsmallholds tostandon agrittypinnacle (lowgear).Continue traversing rightwardsuntilafingerrailappearsanditispossibletostepacross intothe corner.Climbthewallleftofthecornerusingsmallbutgoodprotectionina thin crack to a final tricky move leftwards to a ledge. Drop down into a leftwardfacingcornerandclimbthistoasmallbelayledge. 4) 4c25m Squirmandthrutchthroughthecleftandfollowthegrooveuntillargecracks appearontheRHwall,allowingaccesstothenextpitch. 5) 4c30m Follow the cracks rightwards onto the front face of the shield. Climb this usinga crackand cornerat first, then sparsely protected slabs (micro cams useful)toenterthechimneyabovethecappingoverhang.Belayonthegood ledge. 6) VDiff30m Traverseleftfromthebelaythenstartupthewidecrackandcontinueeasily tothetopofthecragusinganyreasonableroute

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