1) Start to left of base of hand in obvious easy right facing crack. Move up this until you can step right into a left facing crack leading towards the hand. (25m) follow the flake until you can make an easy traverse across into the main crack (good Gear). Follow main crack until reaching a belay point where the crack widens out. Belay has good nut placements. (55m E1 5a)
2) Follow main crack line up to the left with a difficult start over steep overlap. Follow twin cracks until an overlap. Undercling out to the left and pull a difficult move up the water groove. Once standing in the water groove put up a belay in the main crack. (25m E3 5c)
3) Follow the main crack up and over the ‘thumb’ through some difficult off-width moves into a layback just before climbing over the top of the thumb. Follow the wider crack up into stemming groove and easy top out into a nice belay ledge. 45m E2 5c sustained.
4) Follow groove with discontinuous hand crack up towards small chimney. Belay just below chimney where rock has some calcite. 15m VS 4c.
5) Commit to difficult traverse left on crimps and small smears for feet. Little protection, but fairly easy moves for good slab climbers. Get into groove and follow easy angle 20m up to the crack. Protection is limited but climbing easy. (sky hook used). Follow groove with better protection now up to very thorny tree and belay. (55m E1 5a)
6) Scramble straight up to chimney/ wide crack to the right of 2 obvious cracks. It has a big chock stone at the top. Climb this awkward but rewarding chimney over the chockstone and belay in blocks. (15m Vs 4c)
7) Scramble up and to right (east)