Approach
The route is up big gully/chimney by it’s left (large) branch Start at left side of Pillar inside gully (just left of the start of Jetro Tull)
Route description
NE Face
Short but strong route. Classic fireplace. Without the use of rock anchors, the passage of the AID section in the upper part of the route is problematic!
P1. 30m. IV. Inner corner on the left. After the wedged stone, go to the right side of the fault.
R2. 30m. IV. On the inner corner on the right side of the fault 5 meters. Next, go around the large stone on the left. Station on a shelf at the base of a large fireplace.
P3. 50m. V. Up the fireplace. The station is on a small ledge before the beginning of the key section.
P4. 15m. A2. Inner corner on the right. ITO A2 5 meters. Rock anchors! We used 4 pieces. There are few places for friends and bookmarks and they look unreliable. Route key.
P5. 150 - 200 meters walk to the top.
[Misha]
Original description:
Pitch1: 40m, Cumbersome chockstone after about 15m, at the end of the Pillar. Continue to base of chimney proper(5.8+)
Pitch2: A 50m chimney with possible face climbing towards the end of the pitch. Belay from left, under overhanging crack (5.9+ at first, then easier)
Pitch3: 20m, Chimney/off-width. The crux of the whole route is a flared, tapering, overhanging crack, just under the exit (5.10+)
Pitch4: Then a 3 min easy scramble to summit
Descent
main descent
Helpful Images
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