“In memory” is the “straight up” variation of the “Direct start” route opened by Beni in 1987. Beni disappeared in an avalanche in the summer of 1990.

It is a very beautiful route of sustained severity 5-6, with a variety of styles.

Follow first 3 pitches of original route to p3. Pitches:

Pitch4: Climb 30m directly up on slabs (5.10c, 6b or A1) to second bolt. Continue 5m on slab (5.11a, 6c) to wide crack then climb 5 more meters (5.9) to ledge.

Pitch5: Up 10m through big holes (5.8) then 30m up and left on slabs with cracks.

Pitch6: Continue 10m up (5.8 crack) to big ledge. Traverse 30m right (5.7) on ledge.

Pitch7: Continue right the traverse (5.7) on ledge to vertical corner of the roof above.

Pitch8: Climb 5m up and left onto slab (5.9), then 30m up and left along the joint of slab with roof (5.10, 6a) until it becomes horizontal.

Pitch9: Traverse 5m left on slab under (5.8) roof (great view!).

Pitch10: Climb up and left in undercling (5.10a, 6a), then 5m (5.9) in cracks. Traverse 30m up and left (5.7) to bottom of gully.

Pitch11: 15m in gully (5.9) to chockstone. Surpass chockstone (5.10a, 6a) to crack with a stuck friend.

Pitch12: Continue 30m in gully (5.8) keeping right, scramble to fork with L-gully (5.5), 50m.

Pitch13: Climb 20m on rocks to the right (5.7), then scramble to summit in 5-10 minutes.