In Memory of Benny Agur

“In memory” is the “straight up” variation of the “Direct start” route opened by Beni in 1987. Beni disappeared in an avalanche in the summer of 1990.

It is a very beautiful route of sustained severity 5-6, with a variety of styles.

Follow first 3 pitches of original route to p3. Pitches:

Pitch4: Climb 30m directly up on slabs (5.10c, 6b or A1) to second bolt. Continue 5m on slab (5.11a, 6c) to wide crack then climb 5 more meters (5.9) to ledge.

Pitch5: Up 10m through big holes (5.8) then 30m up and left on slabs with cracks.

Pitch6: Continue 10m up (5.8 crack) to big ledge. Traverse 30m right (5.7) on ledge.

Pitch7: Continue right the traverse (5.7) on ledge to vertical corner of the roof above.

Pitch8: Climb 5m up and left onto slab (5.9), then 30m up and left along the joint of slab with roof (5.10, 6a) until it becomes horizontal.

Pitch9: Traverse 5m left on slab under (5.8) roof (great view!).

Pitch10: Climb up and left in undercling (5.10a, 6a), then 5m (5.9) in cracks. Traverse 30m up and left (5.7) to bottom of gully.

Pitch11: 15m in gully (5.9) to chockstone. Surpass chockstone (5.10a, 6a) to crack with a stuck friend.

Pitch12: Continue 30m in gully (5.8) keeping right, scramble to fork with L-gully (5.5), 50m.

Pitch13: Climb 20m on rocks to the right (5.7), then scramble to summit in 5-10 minutes.