# on Topo:
Kham Midai
E10
First ascensionists' grade:
VII, 5.10+
Max estimated grade:
6c+
Length:
Pitches:
First Ascent:
7
Sigal Bergman, Daniel Peikes
Year of FA:
1989
# of bolts en route:
trad
Approach
The route begins about 150m SE of the end the parking lot of the monastery.
Route description
This is a fine route, good protection.
Start between the triangular granite (leaning on the main wall) and the wall.
Pitch1: 30m, easy chimney at right side of triangular, can be climbed unroped.
Pitch2: 50m, 5.8 exit chimney and climb the face of the triangular with several slots for protection, stance at top of triangular.
Pitch3: 45m, 5.9. Follow the crack which is the continuation of the chimney of pitch1. Good protection points, stance at end of crack.
Pitch4: 50m, 5.10+. Head for wide crack (up and right) which climbs 45 degree (up and right), then straight up in a fissures system. After about 25m traverse (up and right) for 15-20m to wide ledge (1/2m wide), walk about 3m to slab, heading for arched roof with fissure at the roof's joint to the slab, some 4m above ledge. Climb slab (5.10+ cru10) to "hanging belay" at fissure. Attention! no protection at all for the last 10m before stance. Stance is about 20m from the left and lower edge of roof.
Pitch5: 50m, 5.9+. Traverse left along fissure. At end of fissure continue straight up, then about 200m easy(5.6) up and right to shoulder of Crag.
Descent
Descend on the other side, to the big Gully
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