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# on Topo: 

Morning Glory

1

First ascensionists' grade:

VS 4c, 4b, 4b

Max estimated grade:

5b

Length:

100ish

Pitches:

First Ascent:

3

Luke Ward, David Flux, Melissa Nesbitt

Year of FA:

2007

# of bolts en route:

trad

Approach

Walk right under the face, upwards past a wire fence until a steep flake crack is reached that offers the most direct start to the rightwards trending ramp that splits the face.

Route description

1) 15m. 4c. This is possibly 5a for those with tender fingers. A rude wake up call. Attack
the flake/crack with laybacks and finger locks. The crack eases and widens and then a
belay can be made.
2) 50m. 4b. Follow the rightwards trending ramp using pleasant varied jamming to a
belay.
3) Continue up the increasingly rubble lined and widening ramp to a steep conclusion on
friable rock. A messy finish to other wise a fun climb.
Nb: The most obvious direct continuation from the pitch 1 belay ledge of Morning Glory.
Attempted 17/10/07. Interesting technical climbing (HVS but goey) for 25m become
rapidly more difficult and dangerous. The finger crack 1m right of the corner dries up at a
bulge and the corner crack becomes very friable. A rightward traverse can be made to a
chimney/cave but further upwards progress and a return to the corner crack (above the
bulge)

Descent

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