Morning Glory
Area | Sector | Pitches | FAGrade | Grade | Length | Bolts | Top | Setters | year |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
St Catherine | Jebel without a cause | 3 | VS 4c, 4b, 4b | 5b | 100ish | trad | Luke Ward, David Flux, Melissa Nesbitt | 2007 |
1) 15m. 4c. This is possibly 5a for those with tender fingers. A rude wake up call. Attack
the flake/crack with laybacks and finger locks. The crack eases and widens and then a
belay can be made.
2) 50m. 4b. Follow the rightwards trending ramp using pleasant varied jamming to a
belay.
3) Continue up the increasingly rubble lined and widening ramp to a steep conclusion on
friable rock. A messy finish to other wise a fun climb.
Nb: The most obvious direct continuation from the pitch 1 belay ledge of Morning Glory.
Attempted 17/10/07. Interesting technical climbing (HVS but goey) for 25m become
rapidly more difficult and dangerous. The finger crack 1m right of the corner dries up at a
bulge and the corner crack becomes very friable. A rightward traverse can be made to a
chimney/cave but further upwards progress and a return to the corner crack (above the
bulge)
Pitches | FAGrade | est. grade | Length | Bolts | Top | Setters | year |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3 | VS 4c, 4b, 4b | 5b | 100ish | trad | Luke Ward, David Flux, Melissa Nesbitt | 2007 |
Walk right under the face, upwards past a wire fence until a steep flake crack is reached that offers the most direct start to the rightwards trending ramp that splits the face.