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Morning Glory

Area
Sector
Pitches
FAGrade
Grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
St Catherine
Jebel without a cause
3
VS 4c, 4b, 4b
5b
100ish
trad
Luke Ward, David Flux, Melissa Nesbitt
2007

2-star, Approach – Walk right under the face, upwards past a wire fence until a steep flake crack is reached that offers the most direct start to the rightwards trending ramp that splits the face. i) 15m. 4c. This is possibly 5a for those with tender fingers. A rude wake up call. Attack the flake/crack with laybacks and finger locks. The crack eases and widens and then a belay can be made. ii) 50m. 4b. Follow the rightwards trending ramp using pleasant varied jamming to a belay. iii) Continue up the increasingly rubble lined and widening ramp to a steep conclusion on friable rock. A messy finish to other wise a fun climb. Nb: The most obvious direct continuation from the pitch 1 belay ledge of Morning Glory. Attempted 17/10/07. Interesting technical climbing (HVS but goey) for 25m become rapidly more difficult and dangerous. The finger crack 1m right of the corner dries up at a bulge and the corner crack becomes very friable. A rightward traverse can be made to a chimney/cave but further upwards progress and a return to the corner crack (above the bulge)

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