# on Topo:
Motorhead
6b
First ascensionists' grade:
VI+ A1, VIII-
Max estimated grade:
6b A1
Length:
Pitches:
First Ascent:
8
Year of FA:
2014
# of bolts en route:
trad
Approach
The route is well visible from the road. From the asphalt road to the beginning of the route 5 minutes. From the village of Santa Caterina 40 minutes on foot or 5 minutes by car. Two start options.
Route description
The names of the pioneers are not known. However, 3 hammered bolts and two hooks were found on the route, one of which fell out during the installation of the station. Dave Lucas climbed the route in front of us , he determined the difficulty of the key climbing section, since we used an aid. The description of the route could not be found anywhere. We suggest a name: Motorhead. Dave Lucas reported that they named the route: Battered.
Option 1 coincides with the start of route B7 Stolen Mirror:
P1. 50m. III, IV-. Up the wide fireplace is easy climbing. The station is on a shelf inside the fireplace on a ledge on the right.
R2. 50m. IV. After the station, go traverse to the left and slightly up into the couloir. A huge wedged stone will climb to the left. Slightly up the couloir. Next are two options. Climb along the inner corner between the slab and large layers of granite. Insurance with large numbers. Or go out of the couloir to the left, and climb along a beautiful, simple hand-jam crack. Station on a convenient shelf.
Option 2 is the same as Alexander Orlov's AAA route:
P1. 30m. VI+. Up the crack, widening in one place to the width of the fireplace. The station is flattening above the fissure.
P2. 30m. IV. Climb up the beautiful easy hand-jam crack in the stove to the right of the fireplace. Station on a convenient shelf. Next comes the independent line.
P3. 30m. IV. Left up through two fireplaces separated by a shelf. Shelf station.
P4. 30m. IV. Traverse to the right, then the inner corner-fireplace. Station on a shelf at the base of an internal corner with a crack. P5. 20m. VI+ or A1. Up the crack in the inner corner. The station is semi-hanging on a small shelf with a bolt. Or you can climb another three meters and make a station in a relatively convenient pocket at your points. P6. 40m. VI, VIII-, A1. Traverse to the left under the overhang follow the crack. Passing the overhang is the key. Further after the overhang, follow the crack to the inner corner. On the inner corner up, slightly to the right. Station on a convenient shelf. There are two bolts. P7. 40m. V. Up through two fireplaces separated by a shelf. Station on a large shelf.
R8. 200m. II. Going to the right along the easy rocks, go to the very end of route B7. Stolen Mirror. Then walk to the top along the simple rocks.
[Misha]
Descent
main descent
Helpful Images
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