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Or Hanemr

# in Topo
Sector
Pitches
FAGrade
Grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
12
Rabba NW face
7
V
5c
400
trad
Hochstatter, Devens
1978
Topo #
Pitches
FAGrade
est. grade
Length
Bolts
Setters
year
12
7
V
5c
400
trad
Hochstatter, Devens
1978

main approach easy, straight up from garden, bottom of letter "V" in the wall. The third big crack from the left[timo]

The route can be recommended for climbing in the warm season, as the sun comes to the route only around 13:00. The name is translated from Hebrew: "Light of the Candle". Don't forget to bring flashlights!

P1. 50m. V. Straight up the crack on the right side of the fault. The first 15 meters can be easily bypassed on the left along the shelves (III). You still have to go back to the crack just before the key. The station is convenient on a ledge on the flattening.

R2. 80m. At the same time, walk up the fault. The station is short of a large stone wedged in the fireplace.

P3. 50m. III. Further up the crack. Station at the base of a long vertical fireplace. No need to organize a station on large friends. All the big friends will be needed at the next pitch.

P4. 30m. V. Up the almost sheer narrow fireplace. All 30 meters uniform climbing in back-legs spread. For insurance, you need mostly large numbers. I put 9 points, but if there were more iron, I would put it more often. Station on a large ledge - terrace. On the left side of the terrace there is a convenient ledge for the station loop.

P5. 70m. III. Further up the crack. Simple at the beginning. The further, the more difficult. There are few convenient places under the station. I had to ask the belayer to climb 10 meters along the fault in order to reach the sitting shelf with a convenient ledge for the loop on the right side of the fault. Place at the station for one person only. This place has changed leaders. The iron was passed by fastening it to a safety rope.

P6. 50m. IV. Further up the cracks on the left side of the fault. I should have tried to get into the fireplace on the right side of the rift, but at first it seemed unpleasant, and then it was too late. The station is uncomfortable on an inclined shelf. The two barely fit together. It took 3 friends to the station, which were then not enough on the route :(

P7. 50m. V. Further up the cracks on the left side of the fault. We rested against an almost sheer slab with a narrow horizontal shelf. From below it seemed that it would be possible to go traverse to the right along this ledge, but that was not the case. It would have been possible to traverse to AID, but the necessary sizes of friends remained at the station. I had to put two points at the beginning of the shelf, and lower the leader to the right down 10 meters into the fireplace. After that, the leader went around the stove on the fireplace on the right and organized a station just above the ill-fated shelf, so that the second one walked with the top insurance along this shelf, holding on to the rope almost like a pendulum.

R8.40m. V, ITO A1. At this point there is a discrepancy between the verbal description of the route and the thread of the route in the photo. The description says that you need to traverse to the left, but in the photo the route thread goes to the right. Since, as a result of our “knight’s move”, we ended up on a convenient shoulder to the left of the fault, we decided to continue to climb directly on the forehead, especially since the wall in front of us seemed convenient and not difficult. It turned out that everything was not so easy, the wall turned out to be steeper, the sloping shelves refused to hold. I had to stuff all the iron through the cracks and hang two ladders. Well, I found a friend on P5 - he also went into business. He climbed out the wall, stopped on a shelf to take a breath, there was still a fireplace about three meters ahead, I see that friend No. 7 remained just for him. The fireplace came out, and there was a convenient shelf for the station.

P9. 60m. From the station there are two intercepts III, further along the vegetable gardens to the ridge (II).

P10. Go around the rock to the left, and further along the ridge to the right 100 meters to the top.
[Misha]

Original description: Start in the crack, the beginning section is closed by a chockstone. First pitch (IV, 5) hand and narrow, then walk 80m following gully. Crack III+ then next pitch V till large ledge*. Follow crack for 3 pitches: III, III+, IV+. Traverse left and up to summit ridge (4) with few moves V then III+.

Note: Name means Candlelight. The route offers many variants with some obliged hard pitches. It is long(400m!), first ascenders reached base by matchlight at 21:45.

2nd ascent: Eli Nissan, Danny Wolfenstein, October 1982 Variant finish from ledge at * continue straight up and left through overhang then left and up (40m, 5.10a) and then easy to top.

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