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Partizan

# in Topo
Sector
Pitches
FAGrade
Grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
5.9
Safsafa NW Face
6-7
IV-V+
5b-6a
trad
Misha & Alexander Ershov
2014
Topo #
Pitches
FAGrade
est. grade
Length
Bolts
Setters
year
5.9
6-7
IV-V+
5b-6a
trad
Misha & Alexander Ershov
2014

On the scree and gently sloping slabs, approach the gorge between the right peak and the main massif of Safsafa. Move up the gorge, the landmark is a huge wedged stone. The beginning of the route is on the left side of the gorge, 50 meters short of the beginning of the route "Right to Left" . Just over an hour from the village. [Misha]

First ascent:
1st option - Mikhail Homeniuk, Alexander Ershov, 2014, 6 pitches, IV, approximately 2B. Classified by the Ukrainian Mountaineering Federation 2B.
Option 2 - finish along the fireplace of the route "Right to Left", approximately 3A. Classified by the Ukrainian Mountaineering Federation 3A.
Option 3 - Mikhail Homeniuk, Alla Sharova, 2014, 7 V+ pitches, approximately 4A.

P1. 60m, III, IV-. Along the rocky cascades of a faintly pronounced couloir on the left side of the gorge 30 meters III. Then take it to the right along the chimney crack IV-, and further along the shelves to the right up. Station on a [slab] under the wall on a convenient ledge. 60 meters of rope is enough for tension. You can make an intermediate station somewhere in the middle. There is a handy large [slab] right after the crack with a handy overhang for the station. Lately I've been setting up a station there. Approximately 40 meters from the start of the route.

R2. 40m, IV. From the [slab] to the right 5m, then go along the slab to the inner corner, and after the [slab] continue up the inner corner, to a convenient [slab] at the base of the couloir. Station on a convenient ledge.

P3. 55m, IV. Up to the right along the couloir to the station on the [slab] after a short 1.5 meter fireplace. Station at its points.

P4. 30m, IV, II. From the station to the right up along the ledges on the wall accurate climbing on balance 10m IV, then up the large ledges 20m II. Station on a ledge. Here the route connects with the "Right to Left" route .

P5. 50m, II, in places III. To the left up the kulkar. The station is on a [slab] under a large wedged stone.

P6. 100m. II, III. Go around the top tower on the left and go to the top tower. Move to a small saddle. From the saddle on the rock with large caverns will rise to the top 15 meters III.

Second ending:

P5. 50m. IV. Up and slightly to the right to enter the fireplace with a wedged stone. Pleasant climbing up the fireplace. Station in the fireplace extension on a [slab] on a ledge.

P6. 25m + 15m. IV+, II, III. Route key: from the station up to the overhanging fireplace tapering upwards. Climb the crack in the left wall, using the right wall for the counter, 10m IV+. Then go around the overhanging ledge on the left and go to the summit tower. Move to a small saddle. From the saddle on the rock with large caverns will rise to the top 15 meters III.

Third ending:

P5. 40m, V. From the right side of the ledge (where the route "Right to Left" goes to the ledge) along the cracks up to the ledge at the base of the large fireplace.

P6. 20m, V+. On the right side of the fireplace. Narrow fireplace, strenuous climbing. The station is on a [slab] above the fireplace.

P7. About 30m, IV. Having crossed the couloir going up to the left to the simple version of the route, climb out onto the summit tower, turning to the right. This pitch is optional, you can go along the couloir to the saddle to the beginning of the descent.[Misha]

These are the numbers corresponding to the Topo #

AsafsafaGBTopo

The Mask, Papa Giovanni, Partizan routes. source: Misha

PartizanGiovanniMask

N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)

safsafaNorthWestTopo
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