Regional classic. The coryphaeus of Sinai mountaineering Sergey Goncharov, to my question about the route, answered this way: "Those who walked Passover make round eyes and start to scare with smooth fireplaces without insurance..."

P1: 50m, IV. Up the fireplace until it's too narrow. We did not start from the ground, but climbed 10 meters along simple rocks. The station sits on a comfortable shelf.

P2: 40m, V+. At 5 meters above the station begins a narrow fireplace the size of a body. The entrance to the fireplace is not very easy. To the right of the entrance there are cracks for rock anchors or hooks, which we did not have. Otherwise, before the start of the fireplace, there is nowhere to lay. On the first attempt, Alexey broke loose and literally flew into my arms. Surprisingly, no one was hurt. On the second attempt, three large Vertikal friends were laid at the beginning of the fireplace - two #10 and one #9. The station sits on a comfortable shelf.

P3: 55m, V+. First, along the wall on the right through a living patch (neatly !!!), then again a narrow fireplace the size of a body. At the top of the pitch, there is a problematic organization of insurance. Relatively small stones fly out along the way. The station is on a spacious shelf in a niche before the start of the tunnel.

P4: 50m, IV. Straight up through the tunnel about 15-20 meters. The tunnel is very beautiful! Further up through the mold to the inner corner, continuing the line of the fireplace. In the original description, after the tunnel, you need to turn right and reach the top in three easy pitches

But we were not looking for easy ways, therefore, for those who are not tired - a bonus from Alexei Chistyakov:

P5: 20m, VI-. Through a slight overhang straight up the vertical cracked inner corner. Reliable insurance on average numbers of friends. Station at the top.

The ascent took 6 hours and 20 minutes, thanks to the quick work of Alexei, who was in the lead all the way. Throughout the entire route, with the exception of the second half of the fourth pitch, the backpack had to be pulled out on a rope. On sections 2-4, small stones fell from the leader, mostly by. The straight line of motion allowed going out on the entire rope, although there were relatively convenient places for intermediate stations. The weather was unexpectedly warm for this season - I was comfortable in two thin fleeces.

Used equipment: twin rope 8mm 2X60m., set (10 pieces) of Vertikal friends, + No. 7,8,9,10 duplicated, set (10 pieces) of Vento bookmarks, 7 short and 13 long quickdraws, 4 station loops.





The route takes the impressive vertical chimney which starts as a dyke, seen from the end of the Bustan where the cypress(?) trees are. Climb the chimney in 8 pitches (250m) (IV, V and V+) to scree ledges under the huge jammed chockstones. Daylight can be seen above. Follow the tunnel and then climb the wall on R of gully chimney in three easy pitches to top.

Note: It is possible to climb inside the chimney and find rotten rock but good protection(terry), alternatively climb outside with poor pro. (mickey)