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# on Topo: 

Penthouse

5

First ascensionists' grade:

IV - V+, A1

Max estimated grade:

6a A1

Length:

8 pitches

Pitches:

First Ascent:

8

Sergey Goncharov, Vadim Chebishev, Vitaly

Year of FA:

2004

# of bolts en route:

trad

Approach

from the end of the asphalt road 20 minutes along the Wadi El Arbain gorge, passing an oasis with cypresses to a huge stone on the path. Continue left up the slope to the wall. Landmark - Passover route - a fireplace cutting through the wall from top to bottom. The beginning of the route is 150 meters to the right at the same level. The most noticeable landmark on the route is the characteristic nose at the beginning of the third pitch.

Route description

Good route. Strong rocks, reliable insurance. After three ascents, we straightened out the pioneer version, which made the route only better.
A nice enjoyable various climb on good rock, shadow in morning.(original note)

P1. 50m. III. Right up the crack in the sloping slab to a large ledge. On the shelf to the right to the base of the crevice. Descend from the shelf 1 meter to a comfortable platform.

P2. 60m. IV, III. From the station climb two meters to the right up and traverse 3m. to the right through the mirror to go to a large crack. Climb up the crack a few meters until it flattens out, and follow the crack up by simple climbing to the characteristic "nose". The station is on a convenient shelf at the base of the crack - a fireplace, at the tip of the "nose". A Soviet-made hook is hammered inside the crack, which can be used for the station.

P3. 60m. From IV to V+. Straight up the crack. The further, the more difficult. Reliable insurance. Key rope. There is no need to make a station inside the fireplace on a stone wedged in a crack (50m from the beginning of the pitch). You need to go through the tunnel for another 10m. The tunnel is quite spacious and not difficult, you can climb through without taking off your backpack. You can do without a flashlight. After leaving the tunnel, organize a station on a comfortable platform at the beginning of a wide crevice. Station on ledges.

P4. 50m. Up the crevice you can go up to 20m without insurance. up to a vertical wall of 4-5 meters with two narrow cracks ITO A1. After the wall along a wide horizontal shelf 20m. to the right to a wide sloping fireplace with a huge wedged stone. The station is on a convenient ledge in front of the entrance to the fireplace. If desired, after the wall, you can climb 10 meters to the left up (you can without insurance) and visit the Penthouse Grotto. However, it does not represent a great aesthetic valueJ.

During our third ascent of the route, we managed to find a way to climb around the AID section along another crack by climbing 6a, which made the route even more logical. From the station straight up the crack 10m climbing to V. Reliable belay on friends. Further to the left along pleasant vegetable gardens III. Station on a large ledge with two hourglasses. The total length of the plot is 30m.

P5. 30m. IV. Enter the fireplace, crawl under the wedged stone and through a slight overhang on the left, climb out onto a large cork. Station on a spacious platform on a ledge.

P6. 50m. IV-. Up the pleasant fireplace on the right to the summit plateau. In the classic version, the route ends here, but on the left there is a summit tower that you can climb, therefore:

Р7. BonusJ 40m. Several interceptions IV. Climb along the cracks from right to left to the summit ridge, along which you can still walk.

Recommended equipment: 60m rope, set of bookmarks, set of friends (larger numbers will be useful), 15 quickdraws, 2 large station loops.
[Misha]

Descent

from the summit tower rappel 30m. Further down the granite fields to the northeast. Then turn left into the second crevice along the descent. You will need a short (7m) rappel. The trigger loop there is pretty frail, so it's best to leave something of your own. Continue left down the valley along a good path.[Misha]

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