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Pharaoh's Chimney

# in Topo
Sector
Pitches
FAGrade
Grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
6
Fara NW corner
4
IV
5a
trad
Taylor, Gault
1976
Topo #
Pitches
FAGrade
est. grade
Length
Bolts
Setters
year
6
4
IV
5a
trad
Taylor, Gault
1976

The route is situated at conspicuous unmistakable chimney on North corner of J.Fara.

Great trail for beginners. Uncomplicated and pretty.

P1. 25m. III. Through a simple wide fireplace (70°) access to the first large ledge. Here is a convenient station at its points.

R2. 30m. IV-. Up the right side of the fireplace. Convenient station on a ledge.

P3. 30m. II. On foot along the fireplace, crawl under the wedged stone, and then on foot to the base of the characteristic inner corner ("half-open book") with a crack.

P4. 30m. IV. Up the inner corner to a convenient shelf. Station on a large ledge.

P5. 20m. IV. To the left along the shelf 5 meters, then up the crack 5 meters IV, then walk to any convenient ledge.

Used equipment: standard set of bookmarks and friends, 5-10 quickdraws, twin rope 8mm. 60 meters, two medium and one long station loop.
[Misha]

Climb chimney in 2 pitches (IV- and 3). Beware of loose stones. Walk to base of “open book”, climb it to good stance, then a few meters left to short crack (4), then easy to top. It is possible to finish after 3rd pitch direct up via more difficult crack (V+, done by Avishai 1987).

faraNWcornerTopo

faraNWcornerTopoDave

faraNWcornerTopoWiki
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