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# on Topo: 

Pharaoh's Chimney

6

First ascensionists' grade:

IV

Max estimated grade:

5a

Length:

Pitches:

First Ascent:

4

Terry Taylor, Steve Gault

Year of FA:

1976

# of bolts en route:

trad

Approach

The route is situated at conspicuous unmistakable chimney on North corner of J.Fara.

Route description

NW Corner

faraNWcornerTopo

NW Corner Topo by Dave

faraNWcornerTopoDave

NW Corner Topo from Wiki

faraNWcornerTopoWiki

Great trail for beginners. Uncomplicated and pretty.

P1. 25m. III. Through a simple wide fireplace (70°) access to the first large ledge. Here is a convenient station at its points.

R2. 30m. IV-. Up the right side of the fireplace. Convenient station on a ledge.

P3. 30m. II. On foot along the fireplace, crawl under the wedged stone, and then on foot to the base of the characteristic inner corner ("half-open book") with a crack.

P4. 30m. IV. Up the inner corner to a convenient shelf. Station on a large ledge.

P5. 20m. IV. To the left along the shelf 5 meters, then up the crack 5 meters IV, then walk to any convenient ledge.

Used equipment: standard set of bookmarks and friends, 5-10 quickdraws, twin rope 8mm. 60 meters, two medium and one long station loop.
[Misha]

Climb chimney in 2 pitches (IV- and 3). Beware of loose stones. Walk to base of “open book”, climb it to good stance, then a few meters left to short crack (4), then easy to top. It is possible to finish after 3rd pitch direct up via more difficult crack (V+, done by Avishai 1987).

Descent

main descent

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