Approach
the route is clearly visible from the gates of the camp and the approaches do not raise any questions. The route starts a few meters to the right of a large fault along an implicitly expressed crack going up to the right to a huge column in the center of the mountain.[Misha]
Route description
NW Face
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A long route, with a short but rather difficult crux. The first half of the day it is in the shade.
P1. 55m. IV, III. To the right, up an implicit crack, at first rather steep (IV), then easier (III). To the fork of the crack. We took the left branch, but soon it joins with the right. Station on the ledge after the fork before turning right up.
R2-3. 110m. III. Up the continuation of the crack. Easy climbing on rich terrain. To the horizontal [slab] at the top of the column leading to the left into the base of the vertical fireplace.
P4. 60m. II. Carefully move along the [slab] to the base of the fireplace. Station on a ledge on a convenient platform.
Start option: The first pitch is the same as the route R9. Beginner's Route. The beginning of the route passes along a large fault, to the left of the main massif of the mountain.
P1. 50 m. II-III. Up the right side of the rift. Bypass the wedged stone at the top to the left.
R2. 40m. IV, II. Go around the wedged huge stone along the wall on the right (IV). Then go into the fault to the right (II).
P3. 60m. II. Move along the fault to the right, and at the end of the fault, exit to the left under a wall with rich relief.
P4. 40m. III. Go along the wall to the right to a large fireplace. Station in the fireplace before the first overhang.
P5. 60m. IV+. Vertical fireplace with two small overhangs in the middle of the pitch. The key is the second overhang - several movements VI. There are intermediate shelves. Station on an inclined plate at the outlet of the fireplace.
P6. 50m. IV-. Easy climbing to the right up under the base of a huge stone. There is a grotto under the stone, there is a [slab] in it. Friends station.
P7. 50m. IV. Exit from the grotto to the left up. After reaching the flattening, keep to the right up. The station is in the inner corner before the fissure leading up.
R8.50m. IV, III. Up along the fissure 5 meters IV, further along the couloir to the large ledge III.
P9. 200m. n.c. From the large [slab] move up to the right, then to the left up the inclined shelves. Go around the top tower on the left and go to the top.
Descent
main summit descent
Helpful Images
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