# on Topo:
Pillar of Czech Jacks
8
First ascensionists' grade:
V+, A2
Max estimated grade:
6a A2
Length:
8
Pitches:
First Ascent:
8
J. Kotrey, Z Lukesh
Year of FA:
1981
# of bolts en route:
trad
Approach
The start of the route is 10m to the left of the chimney leading over the prominent cracked gully.
Route description
P1( 35m, IV+) Through cracks (IV+) 30m up then 5m up on face to belay on convenient ledge.
P2(II-3) Over easier ledgy ground trend towards L until belay under characteristic double crack.
P3(V-V+) Follow these cracks 10m up then traverse 5m to the right (5) and head up 10m (V+) on friction moves to good ledge and belay.
P4(IV A2) Slightly right and up from belay until overhang divided by crack (4). Climb up this crack to short wall with seamline cracks. Up these with thin pitons/beaks and stoppers (A2). Then over 45m of slab and 15m friction climbing (4) to good belay.
P5() From this belay up one step onto ledge lying beneath overhanging crack. Climb this crack and then 25m of slab until good belay
P6(III+) Further right from belay over slab with pockets to good thread on arete then 30m upwards to belay beneath another step.
P7 Traverse right with help of pitons (A1) onto arete, climb 5m via crack (4) and the following slab (3) to belay.
P8 150m up along easier ground (II-3) with sections of (5) to summit of the Pillar.
(translated by Timo)
Descent
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