Approach
Start at the foot of a huge sloping corner 100m right of “Pharaoh’s chimney”.
Route description
Pitch1: 25m 5.6. Start slightly left of the corner and follow the line of the corner to a short lay-back and huge ledge.
Pitch2: 28m, 5.8+. From the right end of the ledge traverse right (then) for 12m. Follow a sloping shallow ramp line, diagonally right to a small cave on the right corner of the face. Problematic protection
Pitch3: 30m, 5.7. Traverse 4m left from the cave, up 2m and back to above the cave. Move up 4m using a detached block, then 5m left . Up to a large ledge. Walk left to belay at the base of a huge flake.
Pitch4: 30m, 5.9(one move). Start from left of the flake and follow a shallow fissure to a large block. Continue up the wides crack (cru10) to a ledge. Follow a ramp up diagonally right to a large boulder and ledge. Scramble 80m up diagonally to the top.
Descent
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