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# on Topo: 

Right to Left


First ascensionists' grade:


Max estimated grade:




First Ascent:


Dimitry Kuzin and Mikhail Khomenyuk

Year of FA:


# of bolts en route:



On the scree and gently sloping slabs, approach the gorge between the right peak and the main massif of Safsafa. Move up the gorge, the landmark is a huge wedged stone. The beginning of the route coincides with the routes N17 and N18 from the Israel Descriptions. Just over an hour from the village.[Misha]

Route description

Older Topo of NW Face


From israeli wiki:

N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)

First ascent:

A beautiful easy route to the dominating peak of the Safsafa massif.

The first option - Dmitry Kuzin and Mikhail Homeniuk, 12/28/2012, 5 pitches, IV-, approximately 2B.

The second option - Mikhail Homeniuk and Alexander Ershov, 01/05/2013, 5 pitches, IV+, approximately 3A.

P1. 50 - 60m. II - III. Go around the large wedged stone on the wall on the right with a simple climb and exit to a large ledge. On the [slab] is a stone with a rappel loop. From the [slab] climb 5 meters to the left along the fireplace to the next [slab]. Station on a ledge. The entire pitch can be passed without contacting, but there is where to fall.

P2. 60m. III, IV-. To the left up the inner corner, in some places to the fireplace. The station is in an extension - a bifurcation of a fireplace on a ledge. At the end of the pitch, the spotter needs to come close to the beginning of the fireplace so that the leader can reach a convenient ledge.

P3. 45m. IV-. On the right branch of the continuation of the fireplace 30 meters to the horizontal [slab]. On the [slab] 15 meters on foot. The station is on a ledge at the left end of the [slab].

P4. 45m. III, IV-. Up to the left, keeping close to the wall to reach the scallop.

P5. 100m. II, III. Go around the top tower on the left and go to the top tower. Move to a small saddle. From the saddle on the rock with large caverns will rise to the top 15 meters III.

The second option for the end of the route:

P4. 50m. IV. Up and slightly to the right to enter the fireplace with a wedged stone. Pleasant climbing up the fireplace. Station in the fireplace extension on a [slab] on a ledge.

P5. 25m + 15m. IV+, II, III. Route key: from the station up to the overhanging fireplace tapering upwards. Climb the crack in the left wall, using the right wall for the counter, 10m IV+. Then go around the overhanging ledge on the left and go to the summit tower. Move to a small saddle. From the saddle on the rock with large caverns will rise to the top 15 meters III.


From the saddle move to the left 50 meters to the platform. Here turn right into the corridor. Go down the couloir towards Mount Moses to a small monastery. Turn around the monastery on the left and go out onto a paved path leading from the gates of the monastery to the foot of Mount Moses. From here on the left along the stairs of the Monk you will go down to the monastery of St. Catherine - a standard tourist route. In addition, it is possible to go to Wadi Arbain, turning off the paved path onto an inconspicuous path to the right, or go down to the road between the village and the monastery of St. Catherine, turning left from the first monastery into a rather steep gorge. Descent time is one and a half to two hours.[Misha]

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