Roughneck Chimney

Farsh Abu Mahshour

# on Topo:

Roughneck Chimney

1

First ascensionists' grade:

VS 4c

Max estimated grade:

5b

Length:

85

Pitches:

First Ascent:

3

Andrew Ruthford, Sarah Potts, Hamish Mathson

Year of FA:

2005

# of bolts en route:

trad

Approach

Route description

Jebel Abu Mahshour East Face left part

1) 20m, 4b. Go straight up (awkward) the chimney. Bit of loose rock at the back of crack. Start so as belayer is off to one side. Belay at the chock stone or carry on if you have the energy left.
2) 45m, 4a/b. Go straight up flared chimney at the lower section. Gets easier as you climb up. Belay on flat ledge below below final corner.
3) 20m, 4c. Go up the corner, with difficulty at first, then move easily. This is the same pitch as cat on a hot tin roof.

Descent

Helpful Images

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