# on Topo:
Songs of the Desert
1
First ascensionists' grade:
E1 5b, 5b, 5a
Max estimated grade:
6b+
Length:
63
Pitches:
First Ascent:
3
Year of FA:
# of bolts en route:
trad
Approach
Route description
This is the first recorded route of Skull Buttress and climbs the R side of the skull as you look at
it.
1) 20m, 5b. Great crack climbing reaches the skull’s L eye and a bomber thread.
Tip toe rightwards up the ramp to a continuation crack Belay at its PP
2) 18m, 5b. A bold rightwards traverse across a slab to a hidden niche (rock 2 and
a friend 0, tricky to place, or a friend 5 is better to protect the traverse.) Make
tricky and devious moves R and up to the base of the crack system. The
obvious approach is not the best approach on the crux. Belay at the natural
thread a little higher. (Probably best to continue to top in a single push.
3) 25m, 5a. An absolute delight! The crack system leads, via the odd step L or R
where it runs out, to the top. A great finish tom a great route
Descent
Helpful Images
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