Approach
Route description
A sustained line on fantastic rock. Take micro nuts up to number 5 camalot.
1) 5c, 55m. start below and left of a tree below cracks. Climb cracks which leans off to the left onto a leftward leading ledge. Walk along this and then up as it steepnes into a slaby ramp. Continue left until the ramp runs out and above a bolt. Downclimb and left to the bolt. This is a handdrill bolt and only has 20cm of bolt within the rock. Traverse left and down slightly on great features. Climb up to a crack and loose Pillar. Continue up in the corner to belay below a small overlap.
2) 5c, 35m. Climb up over the overlap using a thin crack on the right follow this to another overlap. Climb onto a step and then traverse right into a good crack via 62 small seams. Climb this crack for 5m and then traverse across right to another crack that runs left around a short Pillar. Climb the right side of this up to easier ground. Climb up and left to a good ledge belowthe main corner.
3) 4c, 40m. The main corner has loose rock in so the climb cracks that run just left of the corner. This climbs to a large eye and then onto a ledge. Walk right along this ledge back into the main corner. Continue up the corner and belay just below an overhang.
4) 5c, 55m. Climb the crack through the overhang and up 25m to an overhang. Climb the crack and flake through the overhang. Continue up the crack using the feature on the left. Belay on top of a block just short of a crack and offwidth.
5) 6a, 55m. Climb the left option up an easy short corner to a very clean offwidth. Continue up the crack to a large ledge.
6) Walk right 25m to below various cracks on a slaby wall.
7) 5c, 55m. Climb up a short corner using another crack on your left. Continue slightly right and over onto a ramp/ledge. Climb along the ramp to a crack that splits the overhang. Continue up the crack and belay just before it drops back down into a chimney.
8) 5a, 40m. Down climb the crack into a deep chimney. Climb the chimney breaking off right below a bush and then back across left onto featured hollow sounding rock. Use this to gain the crack and easier climbing. Continue up and belay below and to the right of a triangular slab on a good narrow ledge.
9) 55m, 4c. Climb onto the slab to its apex and then out right up on easy ground. There is a lot of loose rock on this pitch. Continue choosing your line carefully to a large ledge with only a 20m easy gully to the top of the climbing. Climb a further 100m of exit scrambling to the summit.
Descent
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