The beauty and the beast
Area | Sector | Pitches | FAGrade | Grade | Length | Bolts | Top | Setters | year |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
St Catherine | Naja West Face | 9 | E4 5c, 5c, 4c, 5c, 6a, 5c, 5a, 4c | 7a+ | 400 | trad | Dave Lucas, Max Dutson, Sam Harvie | 2014 |
3-star, Asustainedlineonfantasticrock.Takemicronutsuptonumber5camalot. a. 5c,55m.startbelowandleftofatreebelowcracks.Climbcrackswhichleansoff to the left onto a leftward leading ledge. Walk along this and then up as it steepnes into a slaby ramp. Continue left until the ramp runs out and above a bolt.Downclimbandlefttothebolt.Thisisahanddrillboltandonlyhas20cmof boltwithintherock.Traverseleftanddownslightlyongreatfeatures.Climbup to a crack and loose Pillar. Continue up in the corner to belay below a small overlap. b. 5c,35m.Climbupovertheoverlapusingathincrackontherightfollowthisto anotheroverlap.Climbontoastepandthentraverserightintoagoodcrackvia 62 small seams. Climb this crack for 5m and then traverse across right to another crackthatrunsleftaroundashortPillar.Climbtherightsideofthisuptoeasier ground.Climbupandlefttoagoodledgebelowthemaincorner. c. 4c,40m.Themaincornerhaslooserockinsotheclimbcracksthatrunjustleftof thecorner.This climbstoalargeeyeandthenontoaledge.Walkrightalongthis ledgebackintothemaincorner.Continueupthecornerandbelayjustbelowan overhang. d. 5c, 55m. Climb the crack through the overhang and up 25m to an overhang. Climbthecrackandflake throughtheoverhang.Continueupthecrackusingthe featureontheleft.Belayontopofablockjustshortofacrackandoffwidth. e. 6a,55m.Climbtheleftoptionupaneasyshortcornertoaverycleanoffwidth. Continueupthecracktoalargeledge. f. Walkright25mtobelowvariouscracksonaslabywall. g. 5c, 55m. Climb up a short corner using another crack on your left. Continue slightly rightandoverontoa ramp/ledge.Climbalong the ramp toacrack that splits the overhang. Continue up the crack and belay just before it drops back downintoachimney. h. 5a,40m.Downclimbthecrackintoadeepchimney.Climbthechimneybreaking off rightbelowabushand thenbackacrossleftonto featuredhollowsounding rock.Usethistogainthecrackandeasierclimbing.Continueupandbelaybelow andtotherightofatriangularslabonagoodnarrowledge. i. 55m,4c.Climbonto theslab toitsapexand thenout rightuponeasyground. Thereisalotoflooserockonthispitch.Continuechoosingyourlinecarefullyto a large ledge with only a 20m easy gully to the top of the climbing. Climb a further100mofexitscramblingtothesummit.