The bloody knuckles climbing club

Enter the base of the crack. Shift right a few feet up when the crack spits you out. Return to the crack when it eases. Continue up into the first larger cave and then clamber up into the second smaller one. Unusual moves and calm head allow progress up open groove until thin thinger jam brings relief and access to a ledge on the right. Lay back the flake on the left to reach under the alien head roof. A delicate tiptoe left brings a finish on the ledge to the right with good belays behind. Look out for friable rock at the top