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The Cracked Egg

14

First ascensionists' grade:

IV, A1

Max estimated grade:

5a A1

Length:

12

Pitches:

First Ascent:

12

Victor Kaftal, Steve Gault

Year of FA:

1976

# of bolts en route:

trad

Approach

same as silly Route

Route description

12 pitches, III-IV + 2 short pitches AID climb (it is possible to avoid them - see "The silly route").
The route follows a system of slabs, cracks and open chimneys on the right hand part of the big NW face of the Rabba. The Cracked Egg is a conspicuous broken rock on the upper third of the wall not to be confused with a smaller and rounder rock at half height.
8 pitches till the cracked egg. Original route in the chimney on the right between egg and wall (IV, A1) (better climb on left C.E., free climb IV+). Then proceed right and reach ledge. Follow ledge till upper wall crossed by vertical crack (A1)(It is possible to follow the ledge for 100m and then walk behind the ridge into a gully (S) till the top), then 3 pitches to top.

Note: it is possible that a few pitches of this route coincide with Misha's "Increase mind" variation of the "Silly Route", namely the top AID pitches.

Descent

main summit descent

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