Make no mistake - you are being watched! The difficulties build up to a fine finale at the top of the big corner on the NW point of the cliff. A full arsnel of techniques is required – most of which will not be learnt st the wall.
1) 40m, 4b. Start by a tree, three chalk blobs () and a pile of rocks against the cliff. Tricky traverse R at 10m, from where the line of least resistance up and slightly L. Belay on a vegetated ledge below a sandy corner.
2) 10m, 4b. Bypass the corner on the R via better rock, more back L into the corner a belay on a block. (45m ab to ground from here)
3) 20m, 4c. The cracks above to a ledge and brief rspite, before hand jamming the continuation to a decent stance below twin cracks.
4) 15m, 4c. “A classic on stanage” and pretty good here. Super climbing, and the point where the quality really kicks in.
5) 15m, 5a/b. The only slab climbing you’ill get on this route so – love it or hate it, as is your want! Easy cracks lead to finger cracks and slabsbehind and R from the belay (possible abseil to P2 from big block) Short scramble to the base of the corner proper and the big chimney
6) 30m, 5b. The mega chockstone at 15m is your first target then BIG cams and even bigger cahones should get you to the stance. Beware of a well jammed, but once loose block just belowthe belay.
) 15m, 5a. Easier, but not easy.
8) 25m, 5b The higher you get, the more technical it gets. Save a friend number 0 and a lock 6 for the crux. A friend 3 is a relief once the work is over. Either belay at the top of the crack, or make an easy traverse L to a horn on the skyline. Well done – have a brew and a biscuit!
Note: Some pitches could be run together, but be prepared for ropedrag. P6 used a friend 5 and aa camalot 5: big cams recommended. 200m of scrambling will get you to the top and various gully descents.