Approach
Route description
Continuation of "main event", (The first two pitches of this climb were originally done by Dave Lucas and he encouraged us to try to finish the route. We spent one afternoon climbing the first two pitches and sussing out the route. Micah and Kyle Elmquist worked P3 for two more days, hoping it would go free, but decided bolts would be necessary. They pendulumed left and free-climbed a 5.12 finger crack to get higher, then pendulumed back right above the P3 and placed 3 bolts by hand on rappel. P3 is rated at 5.13 but was not freed; it was aided on the first ascent of The Sheikh.)
P1. 5.11 flared hands, 50m
P2. 5.11 OW to chimney to fingers, 55m
P3. C1, 3 bolts plus microcams and tiny steel nuts, 30m
P4. 5.10 OW and fists, 40m
P5. 5.9 chimney, 30m
P6 5.8 stem, 30m
P7 5.10 finger lieback,40m
P8 5.10 dihedral OW,40m
P9 5.10 thin fingers on sloping ledge, 40m
P10 5.7 sketchy blocks, 60m 300-foot scramble to summit (This is a fantastic climb with solid 5.10 and 5.11 crack climbing. )
Descent
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