top of page
< Back

The Silly route increase mind variation

St Catherine
Rabba NW face
5c+ A1
Mikhail Khomenyuk, Olga Davydova

Relatively easy route, topping out as close to the summit as possible. Easy climbing (II-III) with sections IV+ of 10-15 meters. The key is 5 meters ITO A1 and 5 meters V at the end of the route. Climbing time 7 hours. Approximate difficulty V A1. (Original description by Misha, translated by google, edited for clarity and switched grading to the usual UIAA, see original for russian grading) Approach: From the village get to the southwestern "Ein tufaha area" towards the Abu Jeeda pass, but not reaching it. From the garden of Sayed continue up inside the bottom of the valley between gardens and boulders until you can see that you are close to the central gully system on the NW face of Rabba. The route starts from the bottom point of the huge letter V in the center of the wall, and goes along the right branch of the letter. Head up straight towards the bottom of the wall. P1. 60m. IV, III. You will find a large slab with a left corner and a right corner. Do not climb up the left corner (has a stone wedged at the top, route R12 Or HaNer) but instead climb up the right corner(IV). Soon the crack flattens out onto easier terrain (III), follow until suitable belay, many options P2(80m, II): simple climbing (II) keep trending towards the right to belay at the bottom of a steepening chimney P3(70m, II, III, IV+): climb chimney with increasing difficulty, ideally up until below a large roof on a convenient ledge, if your rope allows. P4(30m, III) From the belay to the left up the sloping slab under a huge overhang. Go around the ledge on the left, and traverse R along a small ledge towards large scree shelf P5. 100m. I. On the scree ledge under the wall move onwards to the right, to the characteristic rock formation with a crack "Cracked Egg". P6(50m. IV+, I) Up the vertical crack IV+ 15 meters to a big ledge. Here the original route turns to the right. Misha's variation takes a line up the huecos/"elefant ear" features on the left. Belay at the bottom of this face, do not go into the cave on your right. P7(60m. IV+, II) Up the crack (IV+) 10 meters, beautiful climbing and excellent protection! Further up on easier ground and loose rocks until belay before or at the beginning of a gully on your right P8.(50m, II, III) Exit the gully to the right, and then head up straight (?unsure, it is possible to also circle around from the right, which we did, mostly hiking, then head back up left) to base of summit tower. Big rock on ledge marks the start of the next pitch P9a. 30m. A1, V, II. From the ledge start a simple A1 AID along a convenient crack, then continue on ledge to base of chimney. Here you can organize an intermediate belay. Up the chimney with difficulties at the first 5m(V), further up easier, to belay in line with route in horizontal crack. P9b(30m, III) From belay exit to the right onto ledge, then traverse first slightly down then up to good ledge and belay. Here the difficulties end, continue up towards summit, circling the summit tower from the right then L up through gully onto summit. Descent. From the top, go down to SW towards pass, over it and down into ravine and then move along the ravine to the SW. Stick to the left side of the gully. Do not descend the first main couloir to the right, blocked by a huge wedged stone, instead continue on left and start descending along the second couloir to the right. Where the couloir begins to expand, go along ledges and inclined slabs trending right, quite far almost back towards the steep part of the wall and go down the scree avoiding any rappels. The descent takes 1.5 - 2 hours.

Write a report
Help others evaluate this Route by leaving your comment
Rate the route
PoorFairGoodVery goodExcellent

Thanks for sharing your experience!

bottom of page