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Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1

# in Topo
Sector
Pitches
FAGrade
Grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
5
Safsafa NW Face
10
V+, 5.8
5c+
trad
Chiappa, Duchini
1978
Topo #
Pitches
FAGrade
est. grade
Length
Bolts
Setters
year
5
10
V+, 5.8
5c+
trad
Chiappa, Duchini
1978

The route is well visible from the village. Approaches on large scree take about 40 minutes.[Misha]

Regional classic. A beautiful logical route along the crack on the right side of the wall of the second summit of Safsafa. Approximate difficulty 5A.

P1. 60m. III-IV. Up the fissure 10m IV, then a small fireplace 5 meters IV, further along the couloir to a large ledge III. The station is on a ledge on a [slab].

P2. 30m. III. Up the corridor. At the top, go right to the [slab]. [slab] station. You can not go to the right, but continue moving straight and a little to the left, but then the station is less convenient.

P3. 45m. III-V. From the ledge upward along the slab under an overhanging inner corner of 10m III. Further up the inner corner, bypassing the overhang on the left, enter the fireplace and move up the fireplace 30m V. From the fireplace go left to the ledge 5 meters III. Station on a small ledge at the base of the inner corner at its points.

P4. 25m. V. Up the inner corner. The station is in the inner corner before the beginning of the oblique traverse to the right up. The station is at its points, plus there is a metal ring fixed on old dubious syats.

P5. 30m. V+, A0. Oblique traverse to the right up 15m V+ or A0. Further up the inner corner 5 meters IV. Further traverse to the right along the [slab] 2 meters. From the [slab] it will carefully go down into the fireplace to the right. Up a simple fireplace 5 meters to a large [slab]. [slab] station.

P6. 30m. III-IV. Go up to the left into the large fireplace and move up the fireplace to a ledge with a bush before the start of the more difficult section. Station on a ledge.

P7. 30m.V. Up the wide sheer fireplace. Crawl under a large wedged stone and exit onto a ledge. Station on a ledge.

P8. 60m. V, II. From the station to the right up the crack in the inner corner 10m. V, further along a simple fireplace - couloir 50m II. Exit to the saddle on the summit plateau.

An easier version of the route (estimated difficulty 4A):

P4. 25m. III. Coming out of the fireplace on P3, do not go left, but make a station right on the [slab] above the fireplace. Leave the station with a pendulum 3 meters to the couloir to the right. Up and to the right along the couloir, after leaving the couloir go to the ledge to the left. station on a ledge at the base of the fig tree fireplace.

P5. 30m. IV+. Up the fireplace in back-knee braces. The fig tree at the exit of the fireplace is a hassle!) Then another, shorter fireplace. The station is on a large [slab] on a ledge on the left at the beginning of the couloir under a large fireplace.

P6. 40-45m. II. A simple transition first up 10-12 m to the next large [slab] and then along it to the right another 15-20 m until the first logical move up along a system of cracks with a rich relief.

P7. 45m. IV. Easy neat climbing with a general direction to the left up the system of slots and ledges. Insurance with medium and large elements is carried out without problems. Station on one of the shelves in the inner corner.

R8. 80m. II - IV. First, through two small vertical cracks (3-5 m) and then along a narrow couloir straight up to the saddle
[Misha]

These are the numbers corresponding to the Topo #

AsafsafaGBTopo

topoAroundPapaGeissen

the chimney on pitch 7

zppGp7

The original Topo line drawn in the Israeli logbook

Old Topo Papa Giovanni

the crux on pitch 3. source: Misha

zppGp3

The Mask, Papa Giovanni, Partizan routes. source: Misha

PartizanGiovanniMask

this is the view from the belay after pitch 4 down onto the pitch. source: Misha

zppGp4belay

N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)

safsafaNorthWestTopo

looking at the grand hand traverse variation on pitch 5.

zppGp5
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