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# on Topo: 

Via Praga


First ascensionists' grade:


Max estimated grade:




First Ascent:


J. Kotrei, Z. Lukes

Year of FA:


# of bolts en route:



Approach through chimney left of the arete of the Pillar that leads diagonal left through the entire SW face of the mountain.

Route description

SW Face old Topo

Safsafa SW Face

From the IAC logbook, edited by Mikhail Khomenyuk

Older Topo of NW Face


From israeli wiki:

N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)

P1(4) Up chimney and through overhang (4) and afterwards easier to first Belay

P2 leave the chimney here and head onto easier terrain to it's right onto the Pillar.

P3,4,5 follow along the Pillar for 3 pitches (II-3) until prominent grassy ledge under the jagged wall. Simul-walking across this ledge to belay below the wall at its top. and 5th belay

P6 Through ledgy and pocketed wall climb towards prominent angle/openbook for around 30m.

P7(V+, bad rock) Climb the openbook which gets overhanging and has frail rock towards the top and good belay

P8 From here over slab and and the following chimney behind detached Pillar through manhole from left to right and up to chockstone. Climb onto this chockstone (5) and always along the right side of the detached Pillar to "window" at belay number 8

P9 further 3m to the left over step and diagonal towards the right to the bottom of the summit gully(IV+,30m) to the belay.

P10 Partly through this gully, partly through the chimney on its L side onto the detached Pillar and then back onto main Pillar by a bold rockover move (5) then traversing around it to back to the right towards the gully (30m) to belay.

P11 Climb on through gully around block then along hand crack (V+) turning into ledge higher up and to good belay(30m)

P12 From ledge left onto arete and along that one 10m up (V+) then traverse R into openbook and crack and 25m up inside it (5) until summit plateau of this section of the mountain. Translated by Timo [logbook]


Then if desired walk to summit and descent via main descent path

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