top of page
< Back

Winnie the Pooh

# in Topo
Sector
Pitches
FAGrade
Grade
Length
Bolts
Top
Setters
year
4
Fara West Face
6
V+
6a
6 pitches
trad
Misha & Ande Plis
2011
Topo #
Pitches
FAGrade
est. grade
Length
Bolts
Setters
year
4
6
V+
6a
6 pitches
trad
Misha & Ande Plis
2011

from the end of the asphalt road 20 minutes along the Wadi El Arbain gorge, passing an oasis with cypresses to a huge stone on the path. Continue left up the slope to the wall. Landmark - Passover route - a fireplace cutting through the wall from top to bottom. The beginning of the route is 70 meters to the right at the same level. The route passes through a system of cracks and fireplaces to the right of a large monolithic wall.

First Ascent: the key point of the route is the "Rabbit Hole". A deep, narrow fireplace the size of a body, with smooth walls. Narrow so much that you can wedge on inspiration. Two options for passing the middle and upper parts of the route. A simple variant is approximately 4B, a complex 5A.

P1. 45m. V. To the left up a steep inner corner with a crack through a small dry tree. In the upper part, the steepness increases almost to a plumb line. For insurance, you need big friends, bookmarks, monkey fists. Hard climbing 30 meters. Station after flattening at the base of the fireplace.

R2. 45m. IV, V+, II. Straight up the fireplace IV. In the upper part, the fireplace narrows to the width of the body and becomes deep with parallel smooth walls. On top of a wedged stone. We have to climb under it in the thickness of the rock - two or three meters from the outer edge. We called this place Rabbit's Hole. Everything wedges, including the helmet. In this position, you have to climb about 5 meters. Belay is problematic, but falling down is also problematic. Route key. V+. Not for the fat ones!!! After exiting the fireplace, by simply climbing up to a wide comfortable shelf at the base of the inner corner-fireplace II.

P3. 45m. II, III. To the right up along the gentle shelves by simple climbing to the lower right edge of a rectangular sheer red slab. Turn around the corner and go up the crevice to the left to a small shelf at the upper outer edge of the red plate. Further climbing is problematic due to the high friction of the rope. There are several 5V intercepts at the top of the pitch. The station sits on a shelf on two ledges - feathers.

P4. 50m. IV. From the station 2 meters to the left up the crevice. Exit to the sloping ledge and traverse it to the left to a long couloir leading to the top. Climb up the right edge. We have to crawl through the “hollow of the Owl” cavern, otherwise it is problematic to organize insurance. Convenient station on the right on a large sloping slab.

P5. 50m. V, III. Up the crack - the inner corner in three cascades until flattening. At the end of the pitch are two small fireplaces. Station on the right on a spacious shelf.

P6. 60m. II. From the station 15 meters up to a fork on a huge stone. To the left is a continuation of the inner corner-fireplace. We tried to go there, but retreated in front of a section with a problematic organization of insurance. To the right along the shelves, almost on foot to the summit ridge. The end point of the route is the same as the end point of the Penthouse route.

Dedicated to the 130th anniversary of the birth of Alan Alexander Milne (01/18/1882 - 01/31/1956).

Strict version:

Strict Winnie the Pooh. Mount Fara, southwest face (Jabel Fara, SW face), 6 pitches, V+. Approximately 5A. PAR classified: 4A.

First ascent on January 22, 2012. Mikhail Homeniuk and Anna Baturina.

P1. 45m. V. To the left up a steep inner corner with a crack through a small dry tree. In the upper part, the steepness increases almost to a plumb line. For insurance, you need big friends. Hard climbing 30 meters. Station after flattening on the ledge on the right.

R2. 50m.IV, V+, II. Straight up the crevice to the narrow fireplace. In the upper part, the fireplace narrows to the width of the body and becomes deep with parallel smooth walls. From above wedged, but living stone. We have to climb under it in the thickness of the rock - two meters from the outer edge. We called this place Rabbit's Hole. Everything wedges, including the helmet. You get stuck on the inhale. In this position, you need to climb about 5 meters. Insurance with big friends. Not for the fat ones!!! It is dangerous for the second one - it can throw off small pebbles with a rope. After exiting the fireplace, by simply climbing to a wide comfortable shelf at the base of the inner corner of the fireplace.

P3. 55m. V+. Straight up the inside corner of the fireplace, over a slight overhang to a shelf in the fireplace. From the fireplace up to the right on the sloping slab. The station is in the upper right corner of the sloping slab at its points.

P4. 55m. IV, V. Up the crack in the right corner of the couloir leading to the top of IV. After the “hollow of the Owl” cavity, there is a sloping ledge on the right. Further upward along the crack - the inner corner in three cascades to flattening V. On foot about twenty meters to the upper end of the flattening. Station at its points.

P5. 50m. IV, III. Up through two small fireplaces onto an inclined slab. Huge stone "mushroom" bypass on the right. (From here to the right is a pedestrian exit to the ridge). Climb onto the stone, and go to the left into the couloir. The station is on a shelf in the couloir at its points before the start of the difficult section.

P6. 30m. V, III. Up the fireplace 10 meters of intense climbing. Organization of insurance requires imagination. I put in a couple of friends, a monkey fist, and a big rock anchor. V. Further up the vegetable gardens to the top. II. Station on a ledge.

Used equipment: twin rope 8mm 2X60m., set (10 pieces) of Vertical ties, + No. 7,8,9,10 duplicated, Camalot No. 6 helps a lot, but you can do without it, set (10 pieces) of Vento bookmarks, one large rock anchor, one monkey fist made of 10mm rope, 4 short and 13 long braces, 4 station loops, 6m cord for pulling the backpack.
[Misha]

Write a report
Help others evaluate this Route by leaving your comment
Rate the route
PoorFairGoodVery goodExcellent

Thanks for sharing your experience!

bottom of page